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  1. #11

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    Unlike the yahoos that inhabit photo newsgroups (present company excepted!), Lloyd Erlick is an accomplished photographer who has some info about KRST and fixer. He says it's acid in fixer that causes KRST to precipitate muck, and hence leads to a short life for this expensive chemical. Have a look at:

    http://heylloyd.com/technicl/seuse.htm

  2. #12

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    I get muck precipitated out into my selenium toners - KRST and Paterson Acutone - anyway. I tend to wash thoroughly between fixing and toning, then repeating the entire washing process. Got a nice sludge accumulated at the bottom of both containers (I tone in tall cylindrical containers rather than in open trays - works great).
    Three degrees of separation from Kevin Bacon.

  3. #13

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    Ditto john_s report that it's the acid in acid fixers that causes the mucking problem with KRST.

    I use alkaline fixer (TF4)..single bath. I rinse it shortly in my print washer after fixing, then move it directly into the KRST for toning. The intermediate wash is enough to rid the print of any residual developer (when the fixer is a tad used). Developer in or on the print (even at very low concentrations) will seriously muck up KRST.

    Using alkaline fix greatly simplifies things, IMO.

  4. #14

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    Awright, someone remind me again because I can't think straight at the moment (roof sprang a leak during a t-storm today): which is rapid fixer - acid or alkaline?
    Three degrees of separation from Kevin Bacon.

  5. #15
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lex Jenkins
    Awright, someone remind me again because I can't think straight at the moment (roof sprang a leak during a t-storm today): which is rapid fixer - acid or alkaline?
    Neither, Lex. "Rapid" means that it contains ammonia - either as ammonium thiosulfate or as added ammonium chloride. It can be acid, neutral or alkaline.

    I use my own recpie, an alkaline buffered solution of sodium thiosulfate and ammonium chloride. Works faster and is less smelly than TF4, which I tried for the first time last week. I'm going back to my own version. Details will be posted as soon as my test print has been taped to the window for a year without fading.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  6. #16
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  7. #17
    Ole
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    Ammonia is an alkali, ammonium salts not necessarily. In strong alkaline solution ammonia will form ammonium, giving the familiar nasty smell of TF4.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  8. #18

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    Awright, here's yet another photographer's anecdotal "evidence" of what seems to work...

    I usually do a complete wash after fixing and before toning, then repeat the wash cycle. No problems with uneven toning or staining.

    This week I'm in a hurry so I was curious to trying the direct from fixer-to-toner method.

    No go. Got serious staining.

    Here's the materials list:

    Ilford MG FB Warmtone glossy;

    Alta ZonalPro HQ Warmtone developer;

    Alta indicator stop bath;

    Ilford Hypam rapid fixer at 1:4, one minute fix;

    Alta Archival Rinse;

    Paterson Acutone selenium toner.

    I took the test strip straight from fixer to toner, no interim rinse. After 15 minutes very unattractive staining was evident along the edges, indicating the toner had infiltrated the cut paper edges.

    While I might be interested in pursuing methods to save time later, right now I can't afford the time it'll take to experiment with time-saving methods. For now it'll be easier to go with what I know works, which is double washing.
    Three degrees of separation from Kevin Bacon.

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