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  1. #11
    Martin Aislabie's Avatar
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    The standard practice is to either make up the concentrate from its powder form (D76/ID11) or to buy in the liquid concentrate (HC110/Rodinal) - then keep this concentrate in a bottle/container in the presence of as little oxygen as you can manage (squashed the bottle/insert inert gas in the air pocket/glass beads - are all standard tricks to exclude oxygen)

    This bottle of concentrate should then be kept in a cool dark place.

    When you have films to develop, you take some of this concentrate and dilute it to the required working solution immediately before you use it.

    The bottle of concentrate is then further squashed/refilled with inert gas/has more glass beads added/what ever else - to again exclude as much oxygen as possible from the storage bottle.

    Chemicals such as ID11/D76 in dry powder form have a huge shelf life.

    ID11/D76 in concentrate form have a shelf life of easily 6 months

    ID11/D76 is THE standard developer against which all other developers are compared

    D76 is Kodaks version of the standard developer/ ID11 is Ilfords version

    Personally, I make up packs 5L of ID11 and if I don't intend to use it all straight away I decant into 500ml bottles - 500ml happens to be the amount of Dev I need to process a tank of film

    While ID11 doesn't have the shelf life of Rodinal, it is a much more straight forward developer to use (no need to pre-soak).

    As ever with these things there is no one clear answer (otherwise we would all be using it) but a matter of personal taste.

    Martin

  2. #12
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    I too use film with similar occasional and haphazard frequency. That's why I've settled on using HC110 as a one-shot, directly from concentrate (mostly 1+63). I puchased some 2 and 4 ounce Nalgene bottles from one of the camping gear suppliers and divide up the concentrate so that all but the working bottle are full to the brim. Even the bottle with air exposure can go for months with no apparent degradation.

    (As I do even less printing, I'd love to find a paper developer goop that would work in similar fashion.)

    DaveT

  3. #13
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    The most inexpensive developer is D-23. As long as it is not contaminated it will last for several months.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by DWThomas View Post
    I too use film with similar occasional and haphazard frequency. That's why I've settled on using HC110 as a one-shot, directly from concentrate (mostly 1+63). I puchased some 2 and 4 ounce Nalgene bottles from one of the camping gear suppliers and divide up the concentrate so that all but the working bottle are full to the brim. Even the bottle with air exposure can go for months with no apparent degradation.

    (As I do even less printing, I'd love to find a paper developer goop that would work in similar fashion.)

    DaveT
    Dave, somewhere in this site http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ is a blurb about using HC-110 as a paper dev. It works, but as always, YMMV.

  5. #15

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    ansco 130 keeps very well, and can be used
    for film as well as prints

  6. #16
    Frank Szabo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriscrawfordphoto View Post
    Rodinal's concentrate (it is used one shot) last for years, with some people using decades old solutions with no problems. No working strength developer lasts more than 6 months in a sealed jug. Some concentrates last a year or more, but Rodinal lasts near forever in its concentrate form.
    Chris - A question.

    I have some of the newer Rodinal (relatively recent purchase from Freestyle) and the stuff is getting dark on me - still in the bottle, undiluted, as bought.

    I found that the Agfa xray processor at work does a wonderful job on my 8X10 film, therefore the Rodinal doesn't get used too often anymore.

    Does this change from light/honey color to dark (Coca Cola-type dark) hurt the stuff or is it as you say, worth decades of time?
    Last edited by Frank Szabo; 12-07-2008 at 09:43 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    ...

    "Beer is proof that God wants us to be happy."

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  7. #17
    wogster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriscrawfordphoto View Post
    Rodinal's concentrate (it is used one shot) last for years, with some people using decades old solutions with no problems. No working strength developer lasts more than 6 months in a sealed jug. Some concentrates last a year or more, but Rodinal lasts near forever in its concentrate form.
    This sounds good, according to the massive dev chart you can use it 1+25, 1+50, 1+100, not sure what the difference is, as my tank uses 300ml of solution (35mm), 1+25 would mean that a bottle is good for about 40 rolls or so, at about 45 cents per roll. Not sure what the different dilutions mean, guess I need to look at the 65,536 Rodinal threads here
    Paul Schmidt
    See my Blog at http://clickandspin.blogspot.com

    The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....

  8. #18

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    HC110 and 510 pyro will probably out live me.


    MIke

  9. #19

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    For Rodinal to turn dark brown is usual. It does not indicate a problem.
    Claire (Ms Anne Thrope is in the darkroom)

  10. #20
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    ansco 130 keeps very well, and can be used
    for film as well as prints
    Is that a Typo Agfa Ansco 130 is a paper developer, you normally champion Agfa Ansco 103

    Yes & no, or both

    Ian

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