Presumably, the dye does something positive. It's not there just to make the film hard to wash. I think in general the purple dye is a sensitizing dye.
They had no problem making the film with out it, between 1954 and now, so why the change now. Although looking at a roll from 1977 just now, it does have a very very slight purple cast, so maybe it's always been there, just not as strong as it is now. Most likely they used to use a different dye for Tri-X and now they use the same one as T-max, but considering the problems with it, you would think they would start using the dye from Tri-X for Tmax rather then go the other way. Makes me kinda glad I switched to Ilford films back around 1980, never had a problem.....
Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
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The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....
Modern Tri-X has finer grain than earlier versions. The sensitizing dyes are probably relevant to that. Older versions of Tri-X may have had components that are no longer used for environmental or cost or availability reasons, so the film has most likely been reformulated a number of times since the 1950s.
Oddly enough when I process the current Tri-X in 135 I get purple / pink negs with Ilfords fixer, but not with Kodak's Tmax fixer. The pink cast seems to fade away, if I leave the clear file with the negs on my desk for a few days.
I get exactly the same thing. It doesn't scare me though; don't worry rubenmg yourn negs will be fine as long as your washing is adequate and your fixer fresh.
Originally Posted by Harry Lime
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I'd work backwards to solve the problem. The Across
Originally Posted by rubenmg
I process comes out of a very dilute one-shot fix very
pink. By the time it has had a leisurely three soaks with
some little agitation the hue is very very faint. Good
results from Room Temperature Distilled water.
Certain water impurities may contribute to the retention
of film color. Warm water will wash more thoroughly
and do so in no more or even less time. Test with
Room Temperature Distilled. An easy test. Dan
I thought Tri-X took about five minutes, but could be extended some for safety and with Tmax adding some extra time works best. I know the Tmax films always seemed to use up the fixer solution much faster, and that often the film had to be redone.
The halides of silver, chloride, bromide, and iodide,
Originally Posted by geoferrell
make up the silver content of the usual film emulsions.
They become less soluble in the above order. Actually all
three are considered insoluble though a very few compounds
will combine with the silver and form one or more soluble
compounds. Thiosulfate is one of the few compounds.
Silver iodide being extremely insoluble requires a greater
excess of thiosulfate. So more fixer must be used. Also,
ammonium fixers lose much of their 'rapid' character.
The ammonium ion compared to the thiosulfate ion
has little affinity for silver and that especially in
in the presence of iodide. Dan
TX Fix ???
I have had similar clearing probs with TX 400. I Use a jobo processor. I pre wash 2:00 min. Presently using HC 110, Acid stop, Heico Rapid fix for 10:00 min. H2O was 2:00 min.., Heico Perma was 1:00 min., wash in archival washer 10:00 min. This seems to do the trick. But there are times that there is stil a purple cast.
Hope this helps
I'm a bit confused. I read some posts that say do blah, blah, blah and the purple tint is gone, or the film clears. However I've never seen TMAX nor TriX ever completlely clear, no matter how long I fix and wash, the purple tint is still there, ever so faint...is this how it is supposed to be? The purple tint can never completely be removed? Having it there does not bother me, however I just want to know if a faint purple is expected...
Coming back home to my film roots. Canon EOS-3 SLR, Canon EOS 1V SLR, 580ex flash, and 5D DSLR shooter. Prime lens only shooter.