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  1. #21
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    For me the color cast changes depending on developer (HC-110 (slight blue), Rodinal (clear), Pyrocat (stained brown), Edwal 12 (slight red) - all different). I use Ilford Hypam fix, and I always presoak. Sometimes they even come out clear!

    Bottom line is - they all print fine. Looking at the films available out there, Foma 120 film has a blue base that is more tinted than the Tmax and Tri-X negatives and their sensitizing dyes. Guess what - they print fine too!

    - Thomas
    Last edited by Thomas Bertilsson; 12-29-2008 at 12:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  2. #22
    Lanline's Avatar
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    Having recently switched over to TRI-X, my first rolls came with a violet tint. My beloved Neopan 400 washes clear, so I was unsettled by the tint. My second batch of Tri-x today was 2 pre wash, develop in d76 1:1, fix for 4 minutes with fresh rapid fix, hypo clear and wash. Still the same time tint. So I am assuming this is normal just like the Foma's blue tint - I think it's my long experience with Neopan washing clear that has me unsettled.

  3. #23

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    "Having recently switched over to TRI-X, my first rolls came with a violet tint. My beloved Neopan 400 washes clear"

    Same here. So the purple tint is a TRI-X problem not a fixing problem, Ruben!

    Don't worry, you're not making any mistakes

  4. #24
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Erson View Post
    So the purple tint is a TRI-X problem not a fixing problem, Ruben!
    It's a mistake to call it a Tri-X 'problem'. The negatives print just fine, and that's the only thing that matters.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  5. #25
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I struggled at first with Tri-x in 120 with sharpness issues. It just wasn't as sharp as other 400 speed films I was used to (Neopan and HP5). I finally decided to try NOT pre-soaking the film and the negatives came out sharp. I was amazed. Since then I've ditched the pre-soaking of all my films and no longer recommend it, especially for Tri-x in 120. 2 minutes in a hypo-clearing agent then a long wash (6-10min) in warm water gets most of the tint out. A little tint isn't going to hurt anything, as long as you know the film was fixed enough, and it does tend to clear somewhat if left out to ambient light a few days.

  6. #26
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    Im not doubting your experience Brian but that seems really odd.

    Im surprised a prewash would effect your sharpness.

  7. #27
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    Bruce, I agree, it really does seem odd. I never experienced it with any other film, just Tri-x, and just in 120. It's the conclusion I came to after shooting 10-15 rolls of it over two years and each time being disappointed in the sharpness. So it's not like it was just a bad batch. I made a random decision a few months ago to try a roll and not pre-saok and I was blown away, the film was sharp as it should be. I'm judging sharpness with a 4x loupe on my lightbox. I'm tempted to shoot a roll and pre-soak it to see if it happens again. I now use Tri-x regularly. I too was bothered by the "tint" for a while as I was used to Neopan 400 and how well it cleared as well. When it comes time to print though the tint doesn't matter.

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