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View Poll Results: What is your favorite film developer?

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  • D-76/ID-11

    44 14.10%
  • HC-110

    30 9.62%
  • XTOL

    33 10.58%
  • Rodinol

    67 21.47%
  • Microdol-X

    4 1.28%
  • PMK Pyro

    31 9.94%
  • Pyrocat HD

    35 11.22%
  • Other

    68 21.79%
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Results 81 to 90 of 90
  1. #81

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    One of the great things about photography is that there are so many good products out there it is hard to really screw up in choices.

    I've used a lot of the developers mentioned and they all work fine. The one's I haven't used and those I didn't particularly like also work fine or other people wouldn't still be using them. I'm a firm believer that given the time to work out the fine details, any film developer can produce good results with any film.

    Over the years, my personal favorites (meaning they worked really good for my methods but may not for anyone else) have been Rodinal w/sodium sulfite added, D76/ID-11, FG7 and Microdol-X/Perceptol.

  2. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by modafoto
    I have absolutely NO clue at all....Søren...TELL ME
    AHH no Morten, you wouldn't understand anyway

  3. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren
    AHH no Morten, you wouldn't understand anyway
    I am coming to Næstved now and see what you use...
    It must be interesting stuff...1+50 and 1+100...never heard of these high dilutions before

  4. #84
    Ara Ghajanian's Avatar
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    I have been using Rodinal since last March. I think I was most influenced by Morten's signature. It was during a time when I was losing faith in the Yellow God and decided it was time for a new religion. I love the stuff and haven't used anything else since. It gives my photos a distictive "look". Plus it's cheap and keeps forever. Time to buy a case since Agfaphoto's on it's way out.

    Seriously, I just bought "The Film Developing Cookbook" and I'm looking for something to go well with Ilford films that will give me finer grain. Since APX100 won't be around much longer, I need to investigate Ilford films. The search begins...
    Ara
    Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you.

  5. #85
    cvik's Avatar
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    Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid

  6. #86
    FrankB's Avatar
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    Started on Ilfosol S, moved to DD-X after a while and saw a noticeable improvement. Tried Rodinal for a while and whilst I liked the acutance I found the grain to prominent on 135.

    Recently moved over to Paterson Aculux 2 and I don't think I'll be moving again any time soon - the grain is very tight, the acutance is good and the tonality is superb and makes for very easy-to-print negs. Cheap too!
    The destination is important, but so is the journey

  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by matt.s.
    For 35mm & medium format I use Calbe A49 1:1 (same as Agfa Atomal.
    What is now marketed as A49 bears little resemblence to the formula given for Atomal. A49 contains diethylene-p-phenylenediamine sulfate rather than hydroxyethyl-o-aminophenol and catechol. This is probably due to two things; the toxicity of catechol and the unavailability of hydroxyethyl-o-aminophenol. Both A49 and the original Atomal also contain hydroquinone.

    The fine grain of A49 is due to the use of a phenylenediamine derivative. Phenylenediamine and its derivatives are silver halide solvents.

  8. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ara Ghajanian
    I need to investigate Ilford films
    You HAVE to try Delta 100 and Pan F+ in Rodinal. These are my favourites. HP5+ and FP4+ are also heavenly!

    I am btw glad to see that the One is suiting you so well

  9. #89

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    Fuji Neopan 400 works great too in 1:50
    ( thats one in fifty, not one plus fifty, MORTEN)
    12min, agitation 10 sec once every 3min after the initial 60sec (9, 6, 3 min).
    Im not that fond of FP4+ in Rodinal anymore I don't quite know why, but then again there is Pan F, Delta 100 and EFKE/ADOX 25.
    Darned, now I told it You are welcome in Næstved anyway Morten.
    Søren

  10. #90

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    Perceptol is my favourite, especially with FP4 and HP5 120roll and 4x5 sheet.
    I use it diluted 1:3 at 24Degrees (C) in Paterson Tanks or Paterson Orbital for sheet film. Agitation is continuous for first 30 seconds, then two inversions, or 5 second rocking in the orbital, every half minute, for the relevant time, usually between 12 and 14 minutes. Prints are virtually grainless up to 16x12 inch, extremely sharp with a good tonal range. I am a keen follower of the late Barry Thornton's methods, extensively detailed in 'Elements' and 'Edge of Darkness'.

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