One nice thing about metric is that the delineations are pretty fine (litres break down elegantly into millilitres, which are really small units of measurement for most purposes). The problem, of course, is that getting graduates that measure to that kind of precision is very difficult! I only have one graduate that measures single millilitres - it's a tall, skinny Paterson one I bought for mixing up stop baths from concentrate. All the other ones I have measure to 10, 25 or even 50 mL which isn't anywhere precise enough for 1:31 dilutions most of the time.
Thankfully it isn't that bad to work around. My tank needs 300 mL of chemistry to do a 135-36 roll. I take 310 mL of water (300 in my 300 mL graduate and 10 in my teeny one mentioned above) and add 10 mL of HC-110 syrup from an oral syringe. The 320 all fits in the large cylinder. It's a little more chemistry than is needed but far more accurate than trying to measure 1/32 of 300.
Admittedly and obviously I haven't printed these negatives yet, so I can't comment on the midtones.
I tend to prefer D-76 diluted (usually 1:1) when I use it. I imagine Dilution B of HC-110 is more like undiluted D-76 than 1:1. I might be happier with a higher dilution.
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.
Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?
An interesting a beautifully glowing combination is 35mm Tmax 3200 shot at 1000 and processed in HC110 dil B. Very nice pronounced grain and beautiful tones.
Actually I have one of those oil-filled radiator thingies that I turned on a day before my last printing session, but that requires planning ahead -- gulp! The temp ranges from about 62 to 68 over the seasons, which in a way is good, and not really "cold," just that the mean is a tad chilly. I've also thought about a cabinet large enough to hold the bulk of my chemicals and a jug or two of distilled water, said space outfitted with a small thermostatically controlled heater. Unfortunately there are numerous darkroom needs ahead of that in the priority queue (like a working sink)!
Originally Posted by JBrunner
I use HC-110 when I want "that look", as it is certainly distinctive. My dilution is 1:50 for 10min and that works just fine. Mostly use this for Tri-X and Plus-X shooting. Otherwise, Rodinal 1:50 is great, especially with the Rollei films.
If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.
Uh oh, I feel like I'm doing something wrong:
I mix HC-110 Dilution B direct from syrup:
1. About 250ml distilled water.
2. Add 32ml HC-110 syrup (I use a syringe to measure)
3. Add distilled water to 1000ml (one liter).
In other words, 968ml water : 32ml HC-110 syrup.
Seems to work fine using dev times on the Massive Dev. Chart (more or less) for everything I've tried: FP4, Tri-X, HP5, APX 100. My best results are with FP4+ in Dilution B for 6:15 @ 68F.
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I have tested 4x5 TMX with HC-110----1:63 from concentrate for normal dev and 1:119 from concentrate for N-3 (compensating); works well.
32ml into 1000ml sure seems like a lot of concentrate, but your development times are short. I guess that would be the difference.
...which is as close to 1:31 as makes no odds. (I do the same thing, only in English measures; 1/2 oz concentrate to make 16 oz working.)
Originally Posted by katphood
I don't get it---what do you feel like you're doing wrong? It sounds like the very definition of Dil B to me.
Whew! Nothing now. Turns out that 1:31 works out darn close to 968:32 (H20:syrup). Nevermind and thanks.
I find HC110 very linear in its response to dilutions. For example, twice the time (20 min)at 1:100 will give about the same results as 1:50 (10 min). I get some compensating effects at 1:100 and some increase in accutance too.
"I'm still developing"