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  1. #21

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    I think for your intended purpose lith printing will allow you very good control of the shadows and highlights. Like Thomas, I would go for as much detail in this situation, particularly in the shadows. Lith is very good for controling highlights.

  2. #22
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Print from High Contrast Neg

    To the OP: Re - high brightness range.

    The attached print is from Tri-X film, photographed inside the Wisconsin State Capitol in Madison. It's hand held as they didn't allow tripods, and shot at 1/60th of a second at f/4 with an 80mm lens on a Hasselblad camera. The windows had full sunlight coming through them. 1/250th second at f/16 would have been appropriate to capture them with normal development, but of course that would have left everything else completely without detail, or close to.

    I shot the film at box speed, EI 400, and developed using semistand with Pyrocat-MC, at 1+1+100 dilution, 70*F, 13 minutes agitation for the first minute, then at 9min, 6min, and 3min for 10s (2 inversions).

    This is a straight print, at grade 2, using Forte Polygrade paper and Ansco 130 developer. There is a bit more shadow and highlight detail in the print, but this gives you an idea about exposing for the shadows, and develop for reasonable midtone/highlight detail.

    I didn't like the print very much, so I didn't take it further than to this work print. I'm glad it can serve a purpose here.

    - Thomas
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Contrast.jpg  
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Nunn View Post
    I generally find that if I have a negative that prints nicely as a regular b/w print then it works well for lith, too. If it's a pain in the ass to print as b/w, then it's a pain in the ass to lith.
    BINGO

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