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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Berkeley, Ca.
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    Fantastic to both of you! I'll get one of those 2500 tanks L Gephardt if I cant get these Unicolor drums sealed...and that sounds like it would work well Brimc76, so Thanks to you and GreyOwl!

    Thanks everyone for the really fast replies and quick answers! I really appreciate it!

    Chris

  2. #12
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    Oct 2003
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    One thing which may help, or may not, I don't know. When you put silicone on one surface and need it to not stick against the other (as in forming a new seal or gasket) try using paste wax on the second surface. Use a light cover without any excess gobs and then wipe it when it is dry.

    It sounds like you need a mold-release agent to form the gasket against one side and have it stick to the other. This works with epoxy, so I wonder if it will do the same with silicone. You might give it a try sometime. Don't know about the residual wax-developers interaction and chemistry.

  3. #13

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    Jan 2003
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    Berkeley, Ca.
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    brmc?? did you silicon both sides of the seal?

  4. #14

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    Feb 2003
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    Uxbridge On.Ca.
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    No, I first tried the silicon on the lid by itself and found that it still leaked. I just tried putting the ring back in over top of the silicon sealant and tried it again. I found that all the leaks had stopped once I put the original ring seal back in over top of the silicon I had brushed on. I didn't apply anything to the Unicolor sealing ring at all - just placed it where it's suppose to be in the lid.
    Brian McDowell

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    North of Calgary, Alberta. Canada
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    166
    Hi,

    brimc76 has the correct answer. I posted this somewhere (cannot remember where at the moment) on how to properly seal the lids. It works like a dream!

    What is important is that you remove all of the lid seals, including the rubber one that is closest to the lid. You then spread a very thin line of silicone around the area where the rubber seal normally sits inside of the lid. I mean a real thin line of silicone, otherwise closing the lid will be a problem. I tried to achieve a line of silicone about the thickness of the glossy seal that is used in the lid. I used a cheap brush that is normally used for applying solder paste to spread the layer of silicone. You DO NOT place any silicone on the seals but rather only on the hard lid.

    Now let it dry over night. DO NOT put the rubber seal on the wet silicone. The next day re-assemble the lid with all of the seals (rubber and glossy black thin seal) and you should be good for a very long time.

    Hope this clarifies the technique.

    Kind Regards,
    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    747
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisl
    So do these 2521 tanks fit on the Unicolor motor base? Sounds about what I'm looking for.
    No the 2521 won't fit. You'll need the 2551 or bigger. Not much of an issue the price is about the same and the 2551 will handle more film or less film just fine.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Berkeley, Ca.
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    178
    Ah! Now I got it! Thanks alot Brimc76 and Grey Wolf! I really appreciate the instructions! I didn't even see that rubber seal till you mentioned it. lol
    Thanks again guys!!

    And Robert...the bearer of bad news! lol I 'thought' that 2521 looked real short in length to fit the motor base. The 2551 is way too big for me, I rarely need to dev. that many sheets and waste alot of chemistry. Although maybe, one could use only one reel and enough chemistry for one reel in the 2551?? You know by chance Robert if that'd work??

    And Aggie also sugg. a Nikor tank...but that also looks to small to fit the base. Well...I think I'll still get the 2521 and hand rotate develop with it, and seal up these Unicolor drums as noted above and stick to these on the motor base.

    Boy..never thought this would all be so difficult getting a system put together lol

    Thanks alot for all the help everyone!!

    Chris

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    747
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisl
    And Robert...the bearer of bad news! lol I 'thought' that 2521 looked real short in length to fit the motor base. The 2551 is way too big for me, I rarely need to dev. that many sheets and waste alot of chemistry. Although maybe, one could use only one reel and enough chemistry for one reel in the 2551?? You know by chance Robert if that'd work??
    You can use :

    1 4x5 reel
    2 4x5 reels
    1 4x5 reel and one roll film reel set for 120/220
    1 4x5 reel and I think two roll film reels set for 35mm.

    The only thing is you'll always need to use at least 560ml of solution with only sheet film in the tank. Or 640ml if you've got 35mm in the tank. Be it one sheet of 4x5 of the six rolls of 120 film the tank will hold.

  9. #19

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    Jan 2003
    Location
    Berkeley, Ca.
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    Thanks Robert! Great information!

    Chris

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    22
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisl
    Hi all,

    <snip>
    Anyway, I like being able to add chemicals in daylight...so I scrapped those BTZS tubes. Jobo has a single reel 4x5 tank for like $125...and that expert drum for 4x5 does 6 sheets at a time buts costs $250! Wow. Anyway, Xmas is coming and need to know what to get. I plan on using my unicolor/besseler motor bases for rotary processing.

    Thanks for any and all ideas!!

    Chris
    Chris,
    I'm a little late to this thread so you may have already figured out a solution. If not here is something you may be interested in trying.

    I also have Unicolor drums and have liked them very much. However I recently tried something a little different. In a box of photo stuff I bought cheap was a DevTec 8x10 print drum. This print drum is totally smooth on the inside unlike the Unicolor drum. However it has a feature I really, really like. One end is a "pour in" cap and the other is a "pour out" cap. Why does that matter? Well, the pour in cap has a cup under it. When you tilt the drum to vertical the chemicals inside pour out the "out" cap and you can simultaneously pour your next chemical in the pour in cap. No waiting for the drum to empty. The chems are caught in the cap and don't flow into the drum until you lay it down. I can lift, drain and fill in about five or six seconds. Makes for very accurate timing.

    So, I went to the local hobby shop and bought a plastic angle shaped like a "V", a couple of plastic straight pieces like little beams, and a couple of small 1/16" square pieces about 24" long. If you have a Unicolor drum you know where I'm going with this. I glued in the V just like the V in the Unicolor drum. The two straight pieces I glued in at the bottom in position to hold 4x5 sheet film in "portrait" orientation. The little 1/16" square pieces I just glued on the drum wall to allow solutions to reach the back of the film. Only two strips necessary per "side". Finally I glued in a separator in the middle of the drum to keep my film from sliding and overlapping when doing 4 sheets.

    This drum will hold four sheets of 4x5 or if you don't glue in the separator you can also do two sheets of 5x7 or one of 8x10. It will work in my Unicolor roller no problem. It is light-tight and a daylight drum. They are cheap even brand new (~$16 at Freestyle under the "Arista" name).

    HTH,
    Sherman

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