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  1. #21

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    water bath is used to bring in the highlites...use the first bath for the blacks
    then put in the water bath to let the highs come in....slavich will do this to a certain degree
    but it might be prudent to try an amidol developer
    Best, Peter
    website down for maintenance!

  2. #22
    VaryaV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    Red safe lights are not needed with Slavich papers.
    I and a few others have found that to be the case.
    My orange-ish yellow safe lights used with other
    Graded papers work fine with Slavich. Dan
    That's not what happened with mine this weekend. I forgot to turn my Amber safelight off during exposure by accident and it fogged the Slavich bad...

    I recommend red only or complete darkness (which works easier for me).

    I love the Slavich matte.
    Sourdough, salami and blue cheese... and 2 dogs drooling with such sad, sad eyes. ... they're working me... they know I'll cave!

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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by VaryaV View Post
    That's not what happened with mine this weekend. I forgot to turn my Amber safelight off during exposure by accident and it fogged the Slavich bad...

    I recommend red only or complete darkness (which works easier for me).

    I love the Slavich matte.
    Regarding the water bath that Andrew mentioned... I am a bit confused... I was under the assumption that water can be used as a Stop bath.

    I am currently using the Slavich Unibrom #3 for a project and would love to try this 2-bath method to bring in more mid-range tones... can you extrapolate please.... and do I need to change developers? is that recommended? I use Ilford Multigrade pretty much as a standard.... thanks

    I would like suggested times and strengths
    Last edited by VaryaV; 10-18-2011 at 12:06 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Sourdough, salami and blue cheese... and 2 dogs drooling with such sad, sad eyes. ... they're working me... they know I'll cave!

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  4. #24
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    Water can be used for a stop bath, However for contrast control, the water bath method is just a way of reducing contrast range. The way it works is that the developer in the shadows where a lot of chemical activity is present will exhaust quickly when the print is placed into the water bath. The developer is still concentrated in the highlights and continues to be active even in the presence of water. Long story short, the shadows completely stop developing, while the highlights continue. So by placing a partially developed G4 print into a water bath for a few more minutes, and leaving it there with no agitation can reduce overall contrast of the paper close to half a grade or more.... Or thereabouts! YMMV.

    Back to the water as stop bath comment..... If you place the print into water, and agitate the print, you will dilute the devleoper action enough on the print to stop further development, even in the highlights... For contrast control, you do NOT agitate the print. Just pull it from the developer, and slide it straight into the water bath and let it sit until you see the highlights where you want them. Then process as normal.
    Last edited by Andrew Moxom; 10-18-2011 at 12:06 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  5. #25
    VaryaV's Avatar
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    Excellent.... thank you for the details.
    Sourdough, salami and blue cheese... and 2 dogs drooling with such sad, sad eyes. ... they're working me... they know I'll cave!

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  6. #26

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    Yes, thank you Andrew, I was going to ask the same question.

    I have another question though, what is an "amidol" developer?

  7. #27
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    A Wiki explanation..... Amidol is a colorless crystalline compound with the molecular structure C6H3(NH2)2OH. It is a dihydrogen chloride salt and is used as a photographic developer. It was introduced as a developing agent for photographic papers in 1892. It is unusual amongst developing agents as it works most effectively in slightly acid conditions rather than the strongly alkaline conditions required for most other developers. As amidol ages it changes color to a dark red-brown. Developing dishes and equipment used to prepare amidol solutions are also frequently stained brown, a stain that is very persistent.

    Prints developed in amidol are typically a very warm brown-black colour, but overdevelopment can quickly lead to chemical fogging
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  8. #28

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    amidol will last all day in a tray....try that with dektol!!....with modern papers there is no relative advantage to using one developer over another...exceptions to the rule are amidol(sometimes)and ansco 130....this is not scientific only through my using and making many different developers to try...find one you like and get to know how it works...much more important than which one!!
    Best, Peter
    website down for maintenance!

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