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  1. #11

    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Tallinn, Estonia
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    What do the negs look like? Are they transparent? Last time I accidently got unfixed negs, they were milky white, but the negative image was there.

  2. #12
    CBG
    CBG is offline

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    Nov 2004
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    Belt and suspenders philosophy here: keep the unfixed film in the dark till you complete the fixation.

    ID-11 is the same as D-76. D-76 is the most standard film developer ever made - the one by which all others are judged. You're fine with ID-11.

    You need to go back to utter basics. Those are very good photos and deserve the best treatment you can give them.

    Keep all your solution temperatures very consistent. I shoot for within one degree. Easiest way is to mix your working strength solutions and put bottles of them in a tub of water at room temp. so they all even out in temperature. (presumes room temp. is around 68 F) An hour or two will usually get them very close in temp.

    Create an intentional agitation schedule for your development. That will ensure consistent and repeatable development.

    The simplest and most dependable process is to use film developer as a "one shot" developer. That usually means using the developer in it's working strength as a fairly dilute solution and then discarding after one use. Just toss it.

    ID-11 / D-76 is very commonly used diluted 1 to 1 with water as a "one shot" developer. Because it is more dilute than the basic stock strength, a longer developing time is used. www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html has a "Massive development time chart" enter your film and developer and it will give you a good starting point for developing time.

    Use several changes of tempered water to stop development.

    When you are doing new film, keep film in the dark well into the fix.

    Fixer is the only item to fix the image with. Just use any commercially made fixer and follow the directions exactly.

    Water is the only thing to wash with. Use ten changes with considerable agitation. I don't mean thrashing it to death, but a consistent right side up - right side down inversion schedule. Be methodical.

    PhotoFlo is NOT a solution to do the wash. Use PhotoFlo once the wash is finished. PhotoFlo is a detergent like substance that helps the water in your film sheet off the film evenly so you don't get pool like drying marks. Most folks find it should be diluted somewhat more than manufacturer's directions. A little goes a very - VERY - long way. I use it one HALF capfull per gallon final rinse water. When you are done with your diluted PhotoFlo mix - toss it - one use only. It is bad economy to reuse it since any contaminants could be carried from film to film. Why take a chance?

    Many people do their final rinse after washing with distilled water so that mineral junk doesn't make drying marks on the film. If your area has hard water - heavy mineral concentrations - distilled water as a final rinse is a very good idea. Mix your PhotoFlo with distilled water.

    Take your time. Label all solutions and line them up in order of use so you are organized in the dark. The last thing you want is to get confused whan you are new to this. Don't be improvising yet.

    Take notes of what you do. Sounds dorky, but you'll thank yourself because it helps you be methodical.
    Last edited by CBG; 01-26-2009 at 05:09 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: clarity

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