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  1. #21
    sidearm613's Avatar
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    you can find dev times in the dev chart under discontinued data
    David

    A Holga is an ugly woman, a Brownie is a delicious treat.

    dromanophoto.blogspot.com/

  2. #22

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    With TD-3, be sure you don't over-agitate. I settled on 21 minutes with a single inversion (paterson tank) every 3 minutes with good results (with an A:B:Water ratio of 1:1:8).

  3. #23
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    I dropped TP years ago when the price hit $7 + per roll.
    Agfa's APX 25 was $2.25 +/- some little. No glycin at the
    time but was just re-introducing myself to the photographic
    process. If Wynn says it's good it likely is and with other
    current high contrast slow films. Dan
    Thanks Dan. Not doubting White, just wanted to check for any additional experiences outside White's pages, as there aren't technical details there on Contrast Index, tonality, etc. I was looking at and comparing glycin only developer formulae just a couple of days ago, ID-60, D-78, Agfa 8, and TP-78. And I have some Efke/Adox CMS 20 to try out.

    Lee

  4. #24

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    I use Rodinal 1-100 easy on adj 1 over each min. Realy good 14x22 prints.

  5. #25

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    TechPan in C-41

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrey View Post
    Would I be able to walk into costco and just tell them to use it like that?
    Unfortunately no. If you follow the entire c-41 process you will bleach out all the silver and end up with blank film

    Neal Wydra

  6. #26
    Murray Kelly's Avatar
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    How does Voightlander 222 compare with other glycin formulae?

    http://www.photocrack.com/photovergn...IGHTLANDER_222

    I am tempted to try it on ImageLink HQ which is proving to be a bitch to control, and I have a lot of it

    Murray

  7. #27
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Nicholas Lindan;742329]The goal when using TechPan is to get a 35mm negative that will produce a print that can’t be told from a print made from a 4x5 negative. . . If you are not going to develop TechPan in the correct developer you will be better off shooting TMax-100 or Delta 100: either of these will produce less grain and have better contrast and, of course, provide 2-3 stops more speed. . . QUOTE]

    Another valid goal when shooting Tech Pan is to increase contrast or texture in flat subjects rather than developing conventional film for high contrast. Print developer works well in this application with little objectionable grain. This is the main reason I used Tech Pan. As Nicholas said, well exposed and carefully developed T-Max 100 seemed a more practical choice for normal subjects.

  8. #28

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    Quite a number of options for developing Tech Pan at this site.

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Ti...n/techpan.html

    Sandy King

  9. #29
    Lee L's Avatar
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    And another option, via letter dated 1992 from Richard Farber, author of Historic Photographic Processes, whom I met at the house of a mutual friend in Den Haag a couple of years earlier:

    Tech Pan @ EI 25
    Rodinal 1:300
    12 minutes 20C
    agitation: 2 inversions at 30 second intervals

    I didn't have any more Tech Pan to test this with by the time Richard got this info to me, and I was busy with our first child. We had discussed it three years earlier, but he wanted to wait until two articles on this method were published before giving it to me.

    Lee

  10. #30
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee L View Post
    Tech Pan @ EI 25; Rodinal 1:300 ...
    The problem with these methods is the results are really blah - no shadow detail, poor local contrast and no highlight sparkle. Well done TechPan has all the sparkle and local contrast of well done large format work.

    My experience with various Rodinal routines is that the grain is coarser than what one can get with TMax-100. If Rodinal was all I had I would never bother shooting TechPan.

    Even POTA produces rather poor results vis local contrast - just went and looked at some test rolls I did a few years ago.

    My stash of Technidol is running low, I should probably get some TD-3 and see how that does.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

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