Everything is an experiment. If the times are too short for B then H may be the right choice. If not enough concentrate can be used to makeup 290 then make 580 of dil. H . This will have enough of the concentrate to handle one roll, but twice the volume of the tank. Put in half for hald the time, dump and put in the other half for the remainder of the time.
I have done this from time to time and have gotten ok results. I have also done 1/2 for 1/3 the time and the second half for another 1/3. Mix the two spent halves and placed half of that in for the final 1/3 the time.
But if the roll your are wanting to develop is that prize picture of your child's first step use Dil. B. or another developer.
D-76 is a standard developer, although not one I use.
Ansel Adams - The Negative
You could try Dilution E
If the tank is 290mm, you could use 1:47 (dilution E) and it will work fine.
I believe the Covington site recommends 5 minutes @ 68F/20C for Dilution E and Tri-X 400.
My notes say that each 20 square inches of film needs at least 1.5 ml of concentrate, but darned if I know where I got that information!
In any case, dilution H would be 5ml of concentrate in 295 ml water to make the 300 ml required.
Last edited by johnnywalker; 02-01-2009 at 01:01 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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PC-TEA has pretty much replaced HC-110 for me (except with old film where I'm worried about fog), so I'm trying to remember what I used to do with Tri-X. Based on what's at Michael Covington's site and the Massive Dev Chart, I'm thinking about 6 minutes---a little longer if I was worried about underexposure---but I don't claim to know what I'm talking about or anything.
Originally Posted by jgcull
So far I get the impression from you that it might work, might not.
I've shot a roll at 400, and one at 1600, those two are going in Dilution B. And for the sake of the experiment I'll shoot another two rolls at 400 and 1600 this week, and develop those in Dil H. I'll post the result, thank you very very much
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hi Emil - Emil is calling
I have always used Dil B for Tri-x.
400iso: 5,5 - 6 min 20 degreeC
when you push : first dtop: + 30% then +25% fro the nexy ones.. (approx - you'll get the hang on it..)
Write me or come for a visit - I'll show you how..
emilschildt at hotmail.com
I develop Tri-X in HC-110 exclusively, pushed it to 3200, 1600, 800 with little problems. Dilution I used is 1:100(3ml to make 300ml) at 27-28 degrees celsius.
Mostly, I agitate only the first 10 seconds and leave it alone after that. No reason for me to try other developer yet.
Kodak states the minimum as 6 mL, but in the same publication, they also state that only 4 mL of this is used up by a roll of 135/120 normally exposed in average lighting conditions, thus can be replenished by adding 4 mL. You will be fine using 4.5 mL in your tank. It won't be exactly dilution H, but it will develop your film. If pulling and/or doing stand development, it is not any problem at all to use significantly less than the manufacturers stated minimums.
For a developing time, take the time for dilution B and double it to get the time for dilution H. Then, since you are using only 3/4 of the amount of syrup that make those times hold true, add 33% to the dilution H time, so that the dilution H time becomes 3/4 of the time you will use. For instance, if 3-3/4 minutes was your time for dilution B, it would be 7-1/2 minutes for dilution H. 7-1/2 is exactly 3/4 of 10, so your starting time is 10 minutes.
Or, you can simply make up "too much" dilution H for your tank, and throw away the unused portion. The ratio will be the same, and you will only be throwing away a little bit of syrup.
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I use a similar dilution, of 1:50 which is fully 1 US oz HC-110 to 50 US oz of water. This works perfectly for my Patterson tank, and 4x5 daylight tank as well. Trying to deal with ml of thick syrup it too much of a headache.
Originally Posted by Emil
My time is 10min @ 20˚C with normal agitation.
This doesn't have to be harder than it seems, and no need to bother with dilution-B either. Good luck!
If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.
I just remembered that I had started this thread long ago, and I never got around to running the tests I said I would. But a few days ago I developed a roll of Ilford FP4 in a 1+100 dilution for 50 mins. That was just 3ml of concentrate. Unfortunately, the roll was taken with a meterless camera, so exposure was all over the place, but it came out with strong contrast and a decent level of detail. I don't think it was underdeveloped.