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  1. #11
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  2. #12

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    Thanks Aggie, I appreciate it. if you want to come over with the tanks that'd be great as well. I still have about 20 sheets still to do. u still have my phone number?

  3. #13
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  4. #14
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    """is it normal to have the clear film base on the edges to be stained or clear??"""

    Chrisl,
    I don't have any film here at the house but I believe that the clear areas of the film around the outside of the image should have stain in that area also. PMK has a general overall stain. IMO, the trick is to just process the film long enough and print thru the stain. I have been using PMK for about 5 years now and I don't re-soak after fixing and I shoot most of the films I use (HP5+ mostly) at the box speed. My times for normal at 68f is around 17 minutes with tray processing and continual rotation. I hesitate to call it agitation. I also put several drops of Edwal's LFN wetting agent in the pre-soak. That helps the largeformat film not stick together when it first hits the water. I also use Nitril Gloves so I don't get anything on the skin or in the cuts that I seem to always have on my hands. I use H2O for stop bath and I don't use HCA or hypo clear but wash for 20 or so minutes and then run the film thru Photo-flo for a little bit and hang it up to dry. That is what I do, but ymmd.

    lee\c

  5. #15

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    Real similar Lee. 5min presoak, develop, water stop for 3mins, fix 6min and then 20min wash also followed by a quick dip in photoflo. I have some hp5 35mm that i was going to also dev in pmk, nikkor hand develop. I'll try your sugg. time, though I typ agitate for first 15sec, then 15sec/min.

    thx for sharing your thoughts
    Chris

  6. #16
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  7. #17

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    You can use rotary to process in PMK. What happens is PMK oxidizes really fast (turns dark brown), and the base fog increases (which can be printed through but in my opinion is better to not have). I ran several dozen tests with equally exposed test samples of Ilford FP4+ (rated ASA64) and Kodak's new Tri-X (rated ASA160). The best times ended up being identical, which is kind of convenient (times were determined by visual inspection and some printing, not using a densitometer). Temperature is 68 deg F. Here's my process all on the Jobo processor using 6 sheet tank for 4x5, preferably 2 sheets at a time (which matches surface area for 1 8x10 which I also process this way in a print tank) but have used 4 sheets (which equates roughly to 2 5x7 sheets which I also process this way in a print tank) with minimal additional base fogging, all at temperature and 270ml volume:

    1. Presoak for 5 min, dump for 15 sec (removes most of the anti-halation color).
    2. 1st PMK run 3:6:261 using tap water for 4:30 min, dump for 15 sec.
    3. 2nd (fresh) PMK 3:6:261 using tap water for 4:30 min, dump for 15 sec.
    4. Stop bath using tap water, 2 fill and dumps of 30 secs each.
    5. Fix with non-hardening rapid fixer (I use Heico Rapid Fix) for 2 min, dump for 15 sec.
    6. Stain bath (no rinse between fix and this step) using 1-2 grams of Sodium Metaborate in 270ml tap water for 2 min, dump.
    7. Wash on the processor, 3-4 min in 30 sec periods, tap water.
    8. Finish washing off of processor for 10-20 min in tap water.

    I discussed this aproach with Gordon Hutchings at last year's Large Format Conference and he agreed that this might overcome the rapid oxidation issues with single rotary runs. I ran longer times, different ratios of chemicals, and quantities of film. This gave me what I think is the best overall negative while minimizing the base fog. Color is greenish-yellow. This is a very simple process for my darkroom flow and I'm glad I tried it and it works. It also keeps your hands out of all chemicals which must be nice. I use the liquid PMK so pyro dust isn't a problem.

    But you know why I tried it? Because I read a lot opinions that said it can't or shouldn't be done. Kind of put the ol' challenge in it for me. I've got it to work, have some prints that I'm proud of, so don't necessarily believe everything you read!!

  8. #18
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  9. #19

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    Yes, that tank was a godsend lol processed alot of film very well exc. for the dye as mentioned by Aggie above. Interesting though Aggie, the FP4 run I did after you left, I only had one neg w. a much smaller area of left dye(1/4"). Not sure why so much less. Also Aggie, I think I underdeveloped them jus ta tad...10min/70F. Not sure why either as that's the rec. time. In fact, they're worse as most were also underexposed some. Wierd. Anyway, gonna incr. time a bit for last run and see how they look.

    Anyway, the Nikkor tank is nice for when ya got alot of film. The unidrum also worked great after decr. the Trix(160) to 12.3min.

    Thanks for all the suggestions! And Middlecalf, I too was concerned about dev. oxidation and rapid depletion, but I used 250ml for 2sheets as well as 1.2l for the 12 sheets,and they came out fine. but I think you might be right about FP4 dev times being close to trix.

    Chris

  10. #20

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    Need to update my input on PMK processing. I process with all chemicals/rinses at 70 deg F, not 68 as stated (too many different processes!!). When I process 8x10s and 5x7s in the print tank, occasionally a few anti-halation spots remain after the intial rinses in the tank due to lack sufficient water flow behind the film. Continued washing out of the tank has always removed the remaining spots.

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