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  1. #1
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    Is anyone else using this paper developer? I'd like to compare notes.

    I did some testing last night with Ilford MG RC and MG IV FB. This is just a first test with a single neg but it appeared that I could back off a half a grade over the same print souped in Dektol and still get a solid D-Max while seeing a slightly expanded range in the lighter tones. In other words, the shadows printed like a 2 1/2 while the highlights printed like a 2. I'm looking forward to trying it with a wider variety negs.

    I tested using a 1:11 dilution and a 2 1/2 minute developing time at around 70ºf.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  2. #2

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    Neal, I have just started testing with this paper developer myself. Also, using the 1+7 dil. with development times around 1 1/2 to 2 minutes at 70f. I really like the tones I'm getting with it so far, but have only used it on about 3 different negatives. It has all been with on Ilford MG IV RC and FB.

    Some of the original prints of the same negs were done using Edwal Platinum II which I plan to use later on some Ilford WT FB (have already done some preliminary work on one negative).
    Mike C

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  3. #3
    bmac's Avatar
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    I used it a couple of times, really liked the look of it with Forte Polywarmtone fiber. The problem I had is that it made me really really sick. I must have been allergic to something in it. Stopped using it, have been using Ilford PQ universial ever since.
    hi!

  4. #4

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    Be interested to hear, I tried to use what was left over from the stock today and it had already gone bad...mixed it 1:7 and could hardly get any image at all after 3 minutes, it had been much quiker (1.5 to 2 minutes). Bottle was half full and was opened about 5 weeks ago. This would be a drawback for me, since there could be weeks between sessions.

    Anyone else have these types of problems? With other paper developers - how do you work around this issue?
    Mike C

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  5. #5
    lee
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    Dektol is a pretty long lived paper developer. Comes as a powder and you supply the water and elbow grease to mix it. With Edwal's you are buying their water and their mixing plus it don't last as long. A gallon of stock Dektol will last a long time mixed at 1:2 and longer if mixed 1:3. There is some talk that anything weaker will cause the dmax to not be as strong. Personally I have used Dektol 1:5 for 5 minutes and did not think the print was comprimised in any way.

    I mix Defender 55 from the Darkroom Cookbook and I like it very much. I don't get the green tint with the warmtone papers that I see sometimes with Dektol. The green is removed with Selenium toner anyway.

    lee\c

  6. #6
    Ole
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    I've been using the same batch of Ansco 130 1:1 for a month now - last I tried it was still going strong. I'll try it again in ten days time...
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  7. #7

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    Yup, Ole is right: if it's a long lasting working solution that you want, Ansco 130 is it. I had a batch that may have been 6 months old; looked like Coca-Cola, but worked just fine. I dumped it out because...... well, I'm not sure why; it just seemed like it must be bad.

    Besides that, it's a fine developer. It is a warm tone developer, however, and does seem to get a bit warmer as the working solution ages. Some say that it produces a slightly warmer image on neutral tone papers, but if it does, I can't see it. Good stuff, and I like to support Photographers Formulary!

    As to Ultra Black: tried it once, wasn't impressed. To be fair, one bottle is not a fair test, but.... I also may go weeks between printing sessions, so a long life working solution is a huge plus.

  8. #8
    Cheryl Jacobs's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I use Ultra Black exclusively. Love the range, love the deep blacks. I print at least every few days, so the short life isn't an issue for me, but I can see where it would be for some. I haven't found anything else that produces such rich results on warmtone paper.

  9. #9
    Leon's Avatar
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    where can I get Ultra Black from in the uk (or a mix-it-yourself formula?). I have seen some prints recently made in it and they were gorgeous, but i have never seen the stuff on sale, or a recipe for it ....

  10. #10

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    Isn't Ansco 130 the same thing as D76 with Glycin added? The formulas seem to be pretty much identical, otherwise.

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