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Thread: ADOX Films

  1. #1

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    ADOX Films

    A very kind friend of mine has just given me three rolls of ADOX film to try out - CHS25, CHS50 and CHS100.

    I've recently purchased a changing back and Paterson tank to develop the films but I'd appreciate an expert view on which chemicals I should use as developer, stop-bath and fixer. I can get hold of most Ilford chemicals quite readily; is any combination particularly suitable?

    Are these films in any way 'difficult' to process to obtain optimum results? Is it worth taking them to a pro-lab for my first outing?

    I'd be grateful for some advice.

    Thanks in advance. Paul.
    Paul Jenkin (a late developer...)

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Jenkin View Post
    A very kind friend of mine has just given me three rolls of ADOX film to try out - CHS25, CHS50 and CHS100.

    I've recently purchased a changing back and Paterson tank to develop the films but I'd appreciate an expert view on which chemicals I should use as developer, stop-bath and fixer. I can get hold of most Ilford chemicals quite readily; is any combination particularly suitable?

    Are these films in any way 'difficult' to process to obtain optimum results? Is it worth taking them to a pro-lab for my first outing?

    I'd be grateful for some advice.

    Thanks in advance. Paul.
    They should be made by efke.
    Watch for the anti-halation layer (it must be eliminated by a pre-dev wash step) and watch for the gelatin anti-halation support during drying.
    It can be ruined quite easily.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alessandro Serrao View Post
    Watch for the anti-halation layer (it must be eliminated by a pre-dev wash step)
    I wouldn't say "must". I've never prewashed the Efke/ADOX films and I've never found that to be a problem; the dye just comes out with the first bath.

    I process them pretty much as any other film: put on the spool, developer, water stop, fixer, rinse. The emulsion is quite soft and scratching problems are more common with these films than others---handle carefully, especially since the base tends to be curly and squirm away from you when you least expect it.

    Neat films. I really like the response of the 25 speed one to skin tones---it makes for portraits with an indefinably "old" look (about the picture, not the subject).

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  4. #4
    Mark Antony's Avatar
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    I use these films often and I have never used a 'pre rinse' to remove AH layers. The film is made by in Zagreb by fotokemika (used to be EFKE) the film needs to be handled with care compared to Kodak/Ilford/Fuji especially the 120 which can curl.
    Great films with nice tonality, I like them in Rodinal, this is CHS 25 on 35mm:

    Here are some tests:
    Adox CHS 25 Art
    Adox CHS 50 Art
    Adox CHS 100 Art

    Good films well worth a try.
    Have fun
    Mark Antony

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    I just posted a CHS 50 image tonight http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...=42117&limit=1 . I presoak for one minute and develop in Rodinal 1:50. I use water for stop bath, which is what is recommened on the website I believe, and fix in Ilford Rapid Fixer. I have found it's tonal properties to be exceptional, but it does need handling with care when loading the reels, drying etc. I am a complete fan. K

  6. #6

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    The films should process fine in most general-purpose developers, such as Ilford ID-11/Kodak D-76, Ilford Ilfotec HC, Kodak HC110, etc. Note that these films are fairly coarse-grained for their speeds. This isn't a problem for the ISO 25 film, which is rather fine-grained because it's so slow. The ISO 50 film is, in my subjective judgment, about as grainy as most ISO 100-200 films (although there are very few true ISO 200 B&W films for comparison), and the ISO 100 film approaches most ISO 400 films in graininess. For this reason, you might want to avoid developers like Rodinal that tend to emphasize film grain, particularly for the ISO 100 film if it's in 35mm, unless you want a rather grainy look to the film. If you've got the film in MF or larger, though, this shouldn't be as much of a factor.

  7. #7

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    I'v been trying these films to thanks

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    I've only used CHS25 and haven't needed to pre-soak it. It devs very nicely in Tetenal Neofin Blue to give great contrast and tonality. However, the film is very curly and very easily scratched so I've gone over to the simplicity of Delta 100 which gives more consitent and manageable results.
    My website: Light Work

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    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Hello,

    They are nice films. They are delicate, though, and most, including myself, seem to think that the recommended developing times are on the short end. I remember reading a data sheet at one point that suggested against using a stop bath above a certain concentration (1%???), or just using water as your second chemical. It also recommend the use of a hardening fixer, and processing at 20 C, not 24 C. I take the extra precaution of minimizing the "wet time" as much as possible. I aim for short development times, and do not do my normal wash procedure, which is similar to the Ilford procedure, involving agitation in the tank. I tried them all, and settled on the 25, as it is the most unique one of the three, IMO. Two other great aspects are that they are relatively inexpensive and come in every size under the sun. I was able to get 12x20 right out of the back at Freestyle without special ordering or anything.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 03-11-2009 at 06:52 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  10. #10
    Wishy's Avatar
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    Efke 25 developed in R09 is wonderful for brutalist architecture. If you have enough light its definately worth trying!

    Also, i don't do anything different with the film and it seems to come out fine

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