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Thread: RC Papers

  1. #11
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    You've got it, there was no room for manipulation.

    Ian

  2. #12
    Adrian Twiss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Ilford Multigrade IV is NOT developer incorporated, there was a long thread about this a few months ago and Simon Galley confirmed this.

    John, the early Ilfospeed papers had Hydroquinone incorporated in the emulsion, this meant that the paper could be developed extremely rapidly in an alkaline solution. In fact no developer was required at all and they could be processed in an Activator solution essentially NaOH or KOH with a few additives to prevent fogging.

    Ilford changed the Multigrade papers I think with version two and removed the incorprated developer. I know at that point they would no longer process in my Ilfoprint machine, and I stopped using it.

    With a developer incorporated paper choice of developer is far less important, you do get good rich blacks regardless of how exghausted or dilutethe developer, however modern Ilford RC papers are just as capable of giving similar quality images.

    Ian
    I stand corrected. My misconception came from the fact that Forte Polygrade and Polywarmtone always seemed more responsive to different developers than Ilford products did.

    Adrian

  3. #13
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The reason Polywarmtone is responsive to different developers is it's a warm tone Chloro-bromide emulsion, The amount of chloride has a large effect on the potential to shift image colour/tone with developers. The Forte polygrade may not have been a pure Bromide paper, more a Bromo-chloride so that would account for why it can respond better too.

    Many papers were designed to give consistent image colour, and the Ilfospeed range including Multigrade wereamongst these. This was the reason for also offering a Warm-tone version that can give different image colour/tone just by altering the processing.

    Ian

  4. #14
    rmolson's Avatar
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    RC paper


    I established maximum black with minimum exposure early on I also established the true film speed according the camera and film and developer used. I use a cold light unit on both my Omega 2 ¼ and 4x5 I filter according to the effect I want, often with a little punch Normally my negatives will print un manipulated with a number 2 filter and I will go to a number 3 after the first work print. to establish shadow values. Dektol 1:2 or even 1:1at 70degrees developed for minimum 2 minutes Although 3 mins is not uncommon but I rarely is see any difference.
    There is one thing that may or may not be related. I have gotten fine thin hard black edge fog on fresh boxes of Ilford MGIV RC and Arista EUD from different dealers.. I have run into this over the years and have spent many an hour testing safelights ,sitting in the dark checking for leaks( none ever found) opening the boxes in total darkness and even transferring to boxes that have all the edges sealed with black photographers tape I have found the condition on black and white and even color paper when I use to print in color .I wear no jewelry or have any devices running that could generate radiation, other than my winning smile! It’s an old house so radon is not an issue if it were even possible for it to fog photo materials. Generally some days it’s just one d--- thing after another so I just keep dancing! I’m 80 now and have been doing this since16 professionally and for the love of it and think I may just have about gotten the hang of it by now

  5. #15

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    My feeling is that RC papers have been good for some time and are getting better. But a lot can depend on the particular paper developer combination, and the same manufacturer's FB paper may behave differently in a given developer than his RC version. It may (very likely) also depend on your viewing conditions and lighting. Underdeveloping RC paper also leads to some of the things you are seeing.

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