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Thread: Ansco 130

  1. #111
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Cormack View Post
    $77.45 - no customs charges, so £52 all in. Thats the 16 litre kit.
    A belated "Thanks" for that info Justin...

  2. #112
    VincentM's Avatar
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    As many have stated the stock solution keeps for long but things are different for the working solution (1+1). I usually adjusted this working solution with the necessary to fill 1500ml of liquids and keeping it for ever. But yesterday I found out that I gained truly one dia by working with a new freshly made working solution (1+1) !
    So the result between f11 x time in older working solution were equal to f16 x equal time in fresh working solution.

  3. #113
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    I have a PFormuly kit with spent Glycin (actually 2 kits someone gave me) both of the packets of glycin are different shades of brown.

    Has anyone just used the kit but omitting the glycin?

    The formula is very close to dektol but the dektol calls for a bit more metol than comes with the PF 130 kit. I'm speculating this is because of the glycin present in the 130.

    Would it still be active enough with the reduced metol?
    here are the 2 formulas to compare
    PF/Ansco (Ansco/American Agfa) 130 Paper Developer

    Water (125 F or 52C)-----------------------------750 ml
    Metol*-------------------------------------------2.2 grams
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous)------------------------50 grams
    Hydroquinone-------------------------------------11 grams
    Sodium Carbonate (monohydrated)-----------------78 grams
    Potassium Bromide---------------------------------5.5 grams
    Glycin---------------------------------------------11 grams
    Water to make-------------------------------------1.0 liter


    Kodak's D72 Formula DEKTOL
    750 ml Water
    3 g Metol-Elon
    45 g Sodium Sulfite Anhydrous
    12 g Hydroquinone
    80 g Sodium Carbonate 1-Hydrate
    2 g Potassium Bromide Anhydrous
    Water to make 1 liter

  4. #114
    eclarke's Avatar
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    Just add a little Metol...EC

  5. #115
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    It will work fine. I once did it accidentally and didn't notice until I had made several prints. Then I only noticed because I saw that my scale (I mix from scratch) was still set for the Bromide.

    Now I will sometimes add Glycin to my Dektol type developer just to give it better longevity.
    Dennis

  6. #116

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    While I'm a longtime user of Ansco 130 for prints I'm curious to try it as a film developer. I'll probably use the 1:5 dilution as described in the first page of this thread. I have one question before I start doing film tests: is it used as a "one shot" developer or can you use it many times over? Thanks!

  7. #117

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcus K View Post
    While I'm a longtime user of Ansco 130 for prints I'm curious to try it as a film developer. I'll probably use the 1:5 dilution as described in the first page of this thread. I have one question before I start doing film tests: is it used as a "one shot" developer or can you use it many times over? Thanks!
    hi marcus

    i use it 1 shot ...

    have fun!
    john
    ask me how ..

  8. #118

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    Translation: "Brenzcatechin" is German for "Pyrocatechin". Just in case it confuses someone else as much as it did me the first time I bought my chemical suplies from Germany...
    The name pyrocatechin appears in older literature, however the accepted chemical name is now catechol. This name has the advantage of preventing it from being confused with pyrogallol.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  9. #119
    clayne's Avatar
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    Just mixed up some 130 tonight, Adams version. I generally prefer Selectol and feel Dektol gives my prints too much contrast - so I opted for the non-HQ version. I noticed little difference between 1+0 and 1+3 dilutions and found I could alter contrast through agitation more effectively. Either way, the results are great.

    All prints were Emaks K-888 #2, everything toned in Selenium 1+20. Tones to a very subtle brown-black after around 2 minutes, which is what I prefer. For now I'll probably stick with using 1+3 but may experiment with higher dilutions to see if there is any difference. However, I just won't use 1+6, etc. regularly if they take 5 minutes to develop a single print. One thing I do prefer though is that prints coming out of the developer have slightly lower contrast because I always use selenium toner. For that reason I find Dektol sometimes harder to work with.

    Looking forward to the longevity and re-use ability with the qualities of Selectol Soft that I like (good separation, relaxed contrast). I have plenty of chemicals on-hand and have toyed with mixing up some kind of Agfa 120 variant of it using glycin and potassium carbonate, but I'll probably get used to using the AA 130 for a while first.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  10. #120
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I've been using 130 1:1 and re-using the stock solution for months, and it's working great, much easier than mixing up developer and throwing it out after each session. I'm curious as to how to tell when the solution is exhausting. Will the blacks just get weak? Would it be better to keep track of the number of prints I run through it? PF states 50 8x10 prints per liter, is this optimistic?



 

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