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Thread: Ansco 130

  1. #41
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Thanks---that's an interesting test. It would be interesting to see if Azo responds to water bath processing in 130 the way it does in amidol.

  2. #42

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    Sandy, your results are similar - but not identical to mine. I notice (your Azo Forum post) that you developed for 2 minutes in both developers.

    I developed for 1 minute (- 0, +5 sec) in MS amidol at 21C, followed by the MS recommended (strong) acetic acid stop bath & fix.

    I diluted the Ansco 130 stock 1:1 with water and developed for 2.5 minutes (- 0, +5 sec) at 21C, followed by a standard strength acetic acid stop bath & fix.

    I did not tone the prints - I wanted to compare image tone/color after dry down. I can always tone them later - if I wish.

    David, Morris Germain states that contrast can be controlled with Ansco 130 by dilution of the stock solution.

    Morris Germain recommends a 1:1 dilution for normal contrast; undiluted for high contrast; 2:1 for low contrast. I expect that use of a water bath would also lower contrast.

    Recall that Ansel Adams left out the Hydroquinone, which yielded a soft working version of Ansco 130 with lower contrast and delicate fine detail rendering characteristics. He would then add Hydroquinone - if needed - to increase contrast.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjr
    Tom,
    PS: Are you the one Tom Hoskinson participating on Kiev-Report, too?
    I am indeed that Kievaholic, Roman.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by juan
    Tom, have you tried 130 with phenidone replacing the Metol yet? Why not? Ha.
    juan
    No, but I did mix a batch of 130 with no Hydroquinone - a la Ansel Adams.

    How did the big wind treat you? Is your bellows still intact?
    Tom Hoskinson
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  5. #45
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Thanks, Tom.

    Part of the attraction of water bath processing is that if you're printing several negatives in one session, and some of them would work better with water bath processing, then it's not so hard to add another tray of water to the setup and then just dump it to get it out of the way, or if one uses a water stop anyway, just refresh the rinse tray and use it for the water bath with no agitation. Controlling contrast with different developer dilutions means having to group negs by contrast in advance or having enough space for extra developer trays.

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    Thanks---that's an interesting test. It would be interesting to see if Azo responds to water bath processing in 130 the way it does in amidol.
    BTW, when doing the AZO Amidol vs 130 tests yesterday I also tested both Amidol and 130 to see if dilution affects contrast. The answer is basicaly no for both developers. There was virtually no differnce in contrast between AZO when developed in both Amidol and 130 straight, diluted 1:1 and diluted 1:2.

    Different dilutions do result in curves that are slighly different in terms of both toe and shoulder, however. The most straight line cuve with 130 was obtained with the 1:1 dilution, whereas the most straight line curve with Amidol was obtained with the 1:2 dilution.

    I later tested 130 with water bath development, with the following scenario: a) 2.0 minutes in developer, 1.0 minutes in water bath, b) 1.5 minutes in developer, 1.5 minutes in water bath, and c) 1.0 minutes in developer, 2.0 minutes in water bath. The water bath resulted in a change of speed but no change at all in exposure scale, which was 1.45 for all three situations described above.


    Sandy
    Last edited by sanking; 09-11-2004 at 04:05 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #47

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    I would like to try some 130 style developer both as a paper and (4x5) film developer. My question is, what paper would others suggest. My preference for size is 11x14 and I am considering both RC and fiber. My former paper was Polymax RC, but my (smaller size) leftover stock is getting old and I'd like to try somthing else, and at the same time offer support to companies supplying traditional materials. I'll be using a DevTec for development.

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    [QUOTE=MikeK] My problem is with the raw glycin before it is put into solution. Wthin 4 weeks or so it has turned light brown and nowhere near as potent as fresh.

    I've yet to order some glycin. Just how do you go about putting it
    into solution? Dan

  9. #49

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    Glycin is soluble in alkaline solutions. It is only slightly soluble in water. In my experience it is very stable in both Agfa 8 film developer and in Ansco 130.

    Agfa 8 Film Developer

    Deionized Water @ 125 Deg F 750ml
    Sodium Sulfite 12.5 grams
    Potassium Carbonate 25 grams
    Glycin 2.0 grams
    Deionized Water to 1000ml

    Check this thread for more information:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-7398.html
    Tom Hoskinson
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  10. #50

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    [QUOTE=dancqu]
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeK
    My problem is with the raw glycin before it is put into solution. Wthin 4 weeks or so it has turned light brown and nowhere near as potent as fresh.

    Dan
    Glycin is described in the chemical lliterature as a light tan colored powder. I have aquired Glycin from two different sources, and it is indeed a light tan (or brown) powder in both cases. My Glycin is stored in amber glass containers which are kept in a cabinet around 21 deg. C under low humidity conditions. I have seen no change in the powder color and no change in activity over several months.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D



 

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