4x5" - FOMA 100 or EFKE 100
please, let me know your experiences with those films, both in terms of Image qualities and Physical issues.
if comparison possible, how they are compared to acros 100, fp-4, hp-5, txp-320?
while looking for some info about them, the long exposures seem problematic with them. how problematic, compared to fp-4 reciprocity for example ?
The reciprocity characteristics of the Efke film are quite good, while the Foma film is quite poor in this regard. To illustrate this, for a 10s exposure, Efke 100 needs a correction of 1/3 stop (2/3 stops for 100s), for Foma it is 3 stops (4 stops for 100s). FP4 would require about 1.5 stops for 10s.
You can find more info at http://www.foma.cz/upload/foma/prilohy/F_pan_100_en.pdf
and http://adox.de/ADOX_Filme/ADOX_CHS_F...X_CHS_100.html (this link is from a german company that rebrands the Efke, bablefish or something similar might help; I can't seem to find the complete information in english).
i should have thought about the data sheet ... thanks. this is quite dramatic, so one thing in advance for the efke, cause in LF it is common to get down to long exposures.
BTW ... one more question i forgot to ask :
which one of those films have better/acceptable PUSH flexibility ?
Apart from the reciprocity factor I should consider the way of sheet film development due to the fact both film emulsions are very soft, especially the Efke film.
In a (rotary) Jobo 3000 or Jobo 2509N sheet film development the mechanical handling is a minimum which is certainly important for both films.
I do not think the push capabilities are very different for both film. Best bed is the Fomapan T200 (Creative 200) for push capabilities. An iso 125-160 in most developers and push capabilities till +2F. (iso 800)
Vic, I've been shooting Fomapan 100 & 200 at 50 & 100 EI for some time now in my Yashicamat, and also in 9x12 & 5x4, they are nice films, I've yet to shoot in light levels low enough for reciprocity to be a problem. I also use EFKE 25 in 5x4 & 10x8 at 50 EI, but always when using a tripod, I haven't tried the EFKE 100 ISO film for over 30 years as I really like the slow version.
Fomapan 100 & 200 are quirky films, they need very careful exposure & processing to get the best out of them and are very prone to high contrast if you're not careful so I wouldn't recommend them for push processing. The EFKE films are quite a bit more flexible in that respect.
My preference is to shoot Delta 100/400 when possible but Foma films are easier for me to buy off the shelf at the moment (here in Turkey). Both Foma & EFKE films are softer emulsions when wet compared to Ilford, Kodak & Fuji emulsions, but the EFKE films need particular care when handling wet films, and with consistent temperatures during processing.
Last edited by Ian Grant; 03-24-2009 at 09:56 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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Vic, I have used the Efke 25 & 100 in 4x5,8x10,11x14 and 8x20. In 4x5 and 8x10 I develop in pyrocat-hd in tanks with minimal agitation and get great results especially when pushing the film. the 11x14 and the 8x20 I do in trays one at a time and if you are careful you will not scratch the film. the pyro does seem to harden the emulsion. I generally push my film to build the required density I need for carbon printing and the Efke films work great for me.
hi all and thanks for responses.
the tank is the hanging type, but i do know the softness of efke films (the slow ones). not nice but manageable with extra care.
i used the foma-200 a few times. nice film but not my taste.
@ ian and jim
the slow ones are amazing indeed, but i would rather prefer some more speed. this is especially for hand-held work and for portraits in environment conditions/light. one stop difference (compared to 50) and one or two more stops pushability is a great differences sometimes in those cases.
so, from both of u i understand: efke is pushable, foma is less so. mine is for enlargements but i do like to push film even if not required.