I've got some old Tasma MZ-3L that's supposed to be orthochromatic. It's in very bad shape, though.
To the original poster: Most films, even B&W films, record red light -- that is, they're "panchromatic." That is, if you photograph a red object, it turns out gray, not black, since the film is sensitive to the red light reflected by the object. Thus, a red safelight will fog the film. The term "orthochromatic" (or "ortho" for short) refers to a film that's insensitive to red, like most B&W paper. Also, don't be thrown by the term "orthopanchromatic," which is applied to some films, like Efke's ISO 25 and 50 offerings. These films are sensitive to red light, but they're less sensitive than most films -- so a red object shot on one of these films will be darker than the same object shot on most films (assuming equivalent overall print darkness and contrast), but it won't be totally black.
ADOX Ortho 25 is available in 35mm. I got a few rolls from Silverprint last year. It's still listed on their site.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
what kind of ortho film ?
Originally Posted by tiberiustibz
there are different strains of this film,
some is like litho-ortho ( asa 1 in sheets from freestyle )
and then there is the stuff like tri x ortho ..
it was asa 400 unlike its litho cousin
and did not need to be processed in funky developers
laced with restrainers to make it "foggy and kinda pictorial"
i used to process it (tri x ortho ) in dk50 all the time, complete darkness,
together with sheets of normal tri x ...
gave men a "ruddy" look
turned red lipstick completely black on women ... ( like some karsh portraits ... )
is your expired ortho litho or its cousin ?
Originally Posted by J Rollinger
John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA
AFAIK the only film that can be used with safelight is Ortho-Litho- such as APHS. Anything else will fog.
You can use certain IR wavelengths with night vision goggles...Mr. Bond.
That's just, like, my opinion, man...
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Here's a thought, plenty of photogs use development by inspection and a dim green light. Would that work in this situation?
Is half developed film as sensitive as undeveloped film? Probably not. If it's as sensitive as undeveloped film, I'll stand corrected.
Originally Posted by DJGainer
I respool 120 film to 620 spools under an OC safelight. This remains a successful process because . . . I don't turn it on.
Did somebody say "complete darkness", yet?
"Lo único de lo que el mundo no se cansará nunca es de exageración." Salvador Dalí
The best place to find this information is from Kodak itself, they have technical info on all their film products, for Tmax you can find it here This is a PDF file so you need the Adobe Acrobat reader on your computer, most computers now have it pre-installed.
Originally Posted by J Rollinger
From page 3 I'll quote:
Do not use a safelight. Handle unprocessed film in total darkness. Do not develop these films by inspection.
Note: The afterglow from fluorescent lights may fog these films. Make sure your darkroom is completely dark before you handle unprocessed film.
I always get, print and read the technical information on all films I use, there is a lot of useful information in these documents. The one for Tmax films is a single document of 30 pages.
See my Blog at http://clickandspin.blogspot.com
The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....
I've started using Efke Ortho PL 25 film recently for portraits and I've been developing under red safelight, and everything is a-okay. I've posted one of this batch in my gallery ("Beth"). No fog in the first dozen or so sheets.
Originally Posted by JBrunner