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  1. #21
    IloveTLRs's Avatar
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    No, I meant on a box of Fuji Pro160 it says
    CN-16
    C-41
    for development method

    I was guessing the "CN" meant that it was a C-41 film.

    Anyway

  2. #22

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    Personally, all of the results I've seen from 400CN on black and white paper have left much to be desired. They're flat, lifeless, muddy, lack detail, and are just horrible. However, on RA-4 paper in colour chems, they look fine. I've printed from XP2 myself and it wasn't any different than printing from normal negs.

    Ben

  3. #23

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    hi wayne

    have fun testing the films ...
    i am partial to the ilford xp2 super, myself.
    my wife tends to believe it will make people look
    about 10 years younger
    i haven't printed any of it myself, but
    from what i understand
    if you plan on making your own darkroom prints
    since it lacks the orange mask it prints very well.
    roger hicks has written quite a bit on the film ( ilford )
    i am not sure if you will find his words on it here or on his
    website, but it is worth a look.

    john
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  4. #24
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Rated at 200, I found XP2 negs practically printed themselves. Landscapes look like they were taken with a yellow filter fitted. I found it quite difficult to produce a technically dud negative (which is saying something for me!). My only objections to it is that you can't vary things by changing the developer and I find the prints a bit lacking in sharpness (good for portraits I imagine).

    Given the caveats given above on the Kodak product, (which I have never used) I don't see why you would use the Kodak film if printing in the darkroom - no point making a rod for your own back. The Kodak film sounds like a better bet if using a minilab and letting them print it on colour paper.

  5. #25
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    I tried the Kodak version (and all subsequent ones) and found it to be muddy, no shadow detail, and hard to print in the darkroom. Also, the tonality just didn't have that "3-D" look like XP.

    Last week, I scanned some very old XP (no 1, no super, no 2, etc) and they cleaned up very nicely. Shot some XP2-Super a couple of years ago with Zeiss glass, and it was fantastic. Going to try some for an upcoming shoot in MF.

    BTW, sure wish I'd used more Agfa Variopan XL when it was available. Brilliant film.
    If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.

  6. #26

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    I vaugely remember reading or hearing somewhere, ages ago... that C-41 processing wasn't actually needed and you could soup this stuff in regular B&W chems?
    Maybe my memory is faulty? Anyone else remember this article/discussion on what kind of results that might give?

  7. #27

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    AFAIK, any C-41 film can be processed in B&W developers (with a fixer but no bleach!) to produce conventional B&W negatives. With most films you'll get a dense orange mask. I've seen scans of this type of processing on the Web but I've never tried it myself.

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