Coldest paper?

[RidingWaves]

Ok all this talk about cold tone developers is coming back to the paper. Which gives coldest tones, Blue Black?

[Mark Fisher]

If you don't mind graded paper, Slavich Unibrom is pretty cold. If Rc is OK, Ilford Cooltone RC is reasonably cold.

[keithwms]

Yup, I like the slavich very much. I wouldn't call it 'blue black' though, it is just... non-nostalgic black & white.

[jeroldharter]

Kentmere Fineprint VC FB developed in Zone VI developer and the toned in dilute selenium toner is in contention.

[Matthew Gorringe]

Please have a look through this thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/5...one-paper.html

As Jerold has alluded to it's the package that will get you where you want; not just the paper, not just the developer, not just the toner.

If you want blue blacks then gold toning is really the way to go. Start with what you have and try other papers if it's not blue enough.

[Removed Account]

Kentmere Bromide in Ilford's now-discontinued Harman Cooltone developer gave a pretty chilly bluish grey without any toning.

[richard littlewood]

For a straight print a warmtone paper used with a dev with added benzo and virtually no bromide will the coolest of all.

[RidingWaves]

Well for the project I'll be using the Defender 54-D formula which I use for proofing on Multigrade RC, quite cool but not what I'd call cold. Never got my hands on the Cooltone developer.

[2F/2F]

Any paper will give you a blue or mixed blue-black tone if you use iron toner. The type of paper matters, but they all basically go blue. If you just leave it in for a little while, you can get partial toning, which looks extremely neat, IMO. It is quite easy to mix. I think it only involves potassium ferricyanide, oxalic acid, and ferric ammonium citrate (green). You can also make a turquoise version of the same basic toner, and can control the intensity of the color with an additional bath, though I have forgotten exactly what makes up that bath.

P.S. I just went and found this link: http://www.jackspcs.com/ibt.htm

I remember this Website from a while back. It has some useful info. I did not know that you can wash the toner out bit by bit to reduce the blueness. He lists tartaric acid, but I specifically remember using oxalic acid. I guess they both work.

[Adrian Twiss]

Ilfrod Multigrade WT developed in Dektol then gold toned. I get a good blue black with gold toned Fomatone but the I find the highlights a little too cream to look truly cold. I have Also found that Kentmere Fineprint VC in dektol responds to gold toning and looks nice and chilly. Before I stuck with Dektol I used to make up Maxim Muir's Blue Black developer which used to make Forte Polywarmtone look neutral.