Rich, I took your advice and placed Galerie G2, G4 and Adox Fine Print Vario Classic to tray with lights on. Only the Adox went black. Both G2 and G4 have subtle change to light grey. I assume the Gallery in it's latest incarnation does not lith (at least not in LP-Superlith).
I don't have an explanation for you there.
I am not convinced that Galerie liths. The fact of Palec's test would appear to prove that. It may not have developers in the paper, and it maybe silver rich, but does it have a supercoating? Some papers do and if this does (I'm assuming it does) then it will not lith unless it's bleached away. That said, Tim R also states in his book that Ilford WT does not lith very well until it's bleached back. There is no mention of trying Galerie that way. So it may require some testing to be sure, but I have not seen any images posted that would back up that Galerie liths well.
Actually, Ilford MGWT liths beautifully. Try it, but tone it afterward. As far as I understand, it's the main paper Bob Carnie uses for lith printing. But then again, he likes to bring on the toners too.
It is also my impression that Ilford Galerie doesn't lith well, but why not try it? If it works - bonus! If not - well, you lost a piece of paper and 20 minutes out of your life. Small price for finding out for yourself.
If you do decide to bleach back and re-develop in lith, Ilford MGWT works really well, not sure if Galerie works that way or not. Use copper sulfate bleach on a print that's 1/2 stop overexposed in the enlarger and developed normally. Bleach it back until only a faint ghost image of the print remains. Then re-develop the print in a weak but hot (85-90*F) lith solution. You can do this in full room light. Snatch the print when it looks good.
Toners do not look the same when you do this, but can be rewarding.
If you let the print stay in the second developer too long, it'll come back to look almost identical to what it looked like after the first developer.
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I use MGWT with LP-Superlith without bleaching and I like the results. It's very fine grained and has no pepper fogging problems.
I've read somewhere that the formulation of Galerie has been changed, maybe that's why some have good experience while I can't get it working (in various dillutions and times).
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I think why some think Ilford Warmtone does not lith is because the *explosion * happens in the fix and not in the developer.
The print needs to be pulled when a hint of black emergence is happening, which takes a few prints to get a basic handle of.
Thomas is right , it is and has always been one of my favorite lith paper and does accept the toner really well.
For Murals it is fantastic, but I have to say the Slavich 4 , which Guillumme intorduced to me is great for murals as well.
Bob, looking forward to trying this paper again with your suggestion.
Just printed a nice lith series on Bergger VCCB. I'm not toning these, just a dip in Sistan; the colors are already wonderful! I'll post a link when I get them up...
Nova lith 1:8 plus old dev :should pull around 3-4min, I use a very strong bulb on my enlarger :Omega Condensor no filter 250 watt bulb... Exposure time is usually around 15 secs - 60 sec depending on neg, with apeture 2 stops from wide open, glass carrier.
The print goes very flat, and then the blacks start creeping in . When I see a definate black starting to show its ugly head I pull the print... Acid stop*critical to be fast... Rapid fix and watch the fireworks.
Print will be green/yellow which in itself for certain images is very nice.
accepts bleach sepia really well, touch of gold and then selenium or iron blue and the possibilities are endless.
I would really like to find a toner that will enhance the green yellow look but not one of those dye toners that wash out.
have fun , works really well.
Originally Posted by PVia