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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick-in-LB View Post
    ...In the class I am taking the instructor tries to press her eyes on us. In other words she tells us what looks good to her and tries to push that on us.
    Some good instructors will try to push their own view - but as a means to get you to push back, and hence justify yourself. It makes you really look at your work and think hard about it because you really have to come up with a cogent argument to disagree. This isn't a bad technique. I am the first to admit, however, that there are other instructors who are just plain anal. :rolleyes:

    As for JR's image - left, definitely. The image is a great example in a single frame of why EI is personal and dev. time is personal and everything else is just a recommended point of departure. It's good to question - and when you're right - It's Good to be the King

    Bob H
    "Why is there always a better way?"

  2. #12

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    I would second most of the comments above, and add one.
    The image you attached looks like it might be a scan (dust, etc, looks like some of mine).
    If you haven't printed it yet, on your chosen paper, you can't evaluate the development of the neg, IMHO. You can tell that it's not blocked up, and that there is detail in the lower values, but until you print it, I don't think you can make any final decisions about the dev time (unless your chosen paper is made by Epson).

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by George Collier View Post
    .......... (unless your chosen paper is made by Epson).
    Noooooooo

    Bob H
    "Why is there always a better way?"

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade D View Post
    I think it looks good also. An instructor in college told me my negs were too dense but I liked the way they printed. He said snow can't be gray but I said if it's in shadow it is gray not white. The point is if the neg prints to your liking then it is a good neg.
    ******
    Sure; if the image requires grey snow; and a person exposed and developed to get grey snow because grey snow was "what one saw and felt" or was "part of one's photographic vision" then all is in order.
    If a person, because they underexposed the negative, resulting in making snow grey--that all of a sudden that person decides their "artistic interpretation" was for grey snow, then......they have suddenfly become a photographic artiste of the highest order--and to hell with the craft.
    I think it was Rodin who once wrote that "Everyone now seems to be a genius, but no one can draw a hand."
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  5. #15

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    The developing times given in various references are just suggested times. You can and should vary them to suit your equipment and technique. The example shot does look a bit contrasty to me (but it is hard to tell with a scan for the web). It may be a bit overdeveloped, but not 2.5 minutes overdeveloped. From what I can see (which is none too reliable), cutting the development by 15 percent might be good.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nworth View Post
    The developing times given in various references are just suggested times. You can and should vary them to suit your equipment and technique. The example shot does look a bit contrasty to me (but it is hard to tell with a scan for the web). It may be a bit overdeveloped, but not 2.5 minutes overdeveloped. From what I can see (which is none too reliable), cutting the development by 15 percent might be good.
    *******
    A print on the OPs target paper, exposed for min time for max black through clear film, will give a good idea about whether or not the film was over developed or not.

    And, as you say, individual technique and other variables can be in operation.
    I found, years ago, that my FP-4 souped better at Tri-X times (iirc). Could not believe it was anything I was doing; and I was using a very expensive, mercury, lab thermometer to guarantee proper temp. After about six months of this, just for kicks, I checked my thermometer against a pro photographer's thermometers in the apartment across the hall--and voila, my thermometer was reading two degrees celsius too high.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anscojohn View Post
    *******
    A print on the OPs target paper, exposed for min time for max black through clear film, will give a good idea about whether or not the film was over developed or not.

    And, as you say, individual technique and other variables can be in operation.
    I found, years ago, that my FP-4 souped better at Tri-X times (iirc). Could not believe it was anything I was doing; and I was using a very expensive, mercury, lab thermometer to guarantee proper temp. After about six months of this, just for kicks, I checked my thermometer against a pro photographer's thermometers in the apartment across the hall--and voila, my thermometer was reading two degrees celsius too high.
    John

    Speaking of thermometers i need to buy a good one, can you recommend one? I have been using an old Weston dial thermometer and dont know if it is correct.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by nworth View Post
    The developing times given in various references are just suggested times. You can and should vary them to suit your equipment and technique. The example shot does look a bit contrasty to me (but it is hard to tell with a scan for the web). It may be a bit overdeveloped, but not 2.5 minutes overdeveloped. From what I can see (which is none too reliable), cutting the development by 15 percent might be good.
    Thanks for the idea. I will cut the development by 15% next time and see what happens.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Thanks for the idea. I will cut the development by 15% next time and see what happens.
    ******
    Be careful. You've printed those negs, right?
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    John

    Speaking of thermometers i need to buy a good one, can you recommend one? I have been using an old Weston dial thermometer and dont know if it is correct.
    ******
    I have an old Weston, as well as a second dial thermometer. Might be an old Unicolor; or maybe a Beseler. I have four or five new mercury school lab thermometers carefully stored away. I bought them when they were no longer allowed to be used with the youngsters around them.

    I use one of them to calibrate the dial thermometers periodically; and once or twice a year I use two of the others to check the one I use for calibration.

    Of course, having the luxury of a basement darkroom, my temps stay pretty constant, so i have few surprises in any case.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

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