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  1. #11
    erikg's Avatar
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    It's a great combo, the film is pretty awesome. I switched a few years back after some issues I was having with HP-5, and I haven't looked back. I shoot 120 mainly, some 4x5 and 810. I've been shooting 35mm lately too, it's as sharp as most medium speed films. I get an EI of 400, develop 2:2:100 for 7.5 min @ 72.

  2. #12
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    15 minutes would really fry my negatives. My normal time with the old TMY was 11 minutes at 70 degrees and the new stuff is at least 1 stop contrastier.

    Those of you who've shot this film in 120: have you noticed any effects from the dreaded anti-UV backing in the base? I was told that this was to be added to the production run. (but only for 120 and not sheet film).

  3. #13
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3 View Post
    Those of you who've shot this film in 120: have you noticed any effects from the dreaded anti-UV backing in the base? I was told that this was to be added to the production run. (but only for 120 and not sheet film).
    I've noticed a blue tinge in 120 negative scans but it doesn't seem to have any effect when printing. Converting the scan to grayscale does away with it.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  4. #14
    Michael Slade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Michael,

    I meter with BTZS incident type metering, i.e. exposure is based on one single shadow value reading, but effective film speed is doubled. So I rate TMY at EI 800 and expose based on the single shadow value reading. With this procedure I get more than enough exposure in open shadows.

    One could also take a shadow value incident reading, and one in the highlights, and average the two, using box film speed. However, my main concern is to not lose any open shadow detail so I take the meter to the shadows and read there.

    Sandy
    I'll try metering a negative like that soon. I haven't shot in a while, so it'll be a good excuse. I have not tried that method before. I may have to read up on it a bit. I'm using the good old place zone III in the shadow w/detail, hold the highlights, etc...
    Michael Slade

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