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  1. #11
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    You seem to be going to a lot of effort to remove the anti-halation layer which should come off easily.

    I have not used FP4+ in 5x4 but when I use it in 120, all of the dye comes out in the pre-wash. I can prove that by doing a second pre-wash from which the water comes out fairly clear.

    It sounds like the problem is in getting enough flow of water around the back of the sheet where this layer is.

    I don't think re-fixing is needed as the flow around the emulsion side is fine. Have you tried washing the dye off under a running tap or in a tray rather than in the tank?


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  2. #12
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    I havent got this problem with fuji acros. Only with fp4+.

    Maybe i must offer 1 sheet to do the whole process in a open tray, so i can see what happens.

    txs.

  3. #13

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    I've read in several places that the magenta cast doesn't affect printing. However, I can't shake the feeling that, when using VC paper, that magenta cast would prompt an increase in effective printing contrast. That said, I base my fixing times on three times the clearing time for the maximum number of films I use a 1.5 liter batch for - 20 rolls - which is a standard 9 minute fix for everything.

    Bob H
    "Why is there always a better way?"

  4. #14
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    I always use a max of 8 rolls on 1 liter (1+4). So this fix should not be exhausted.

  5. #15

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    I've always had a problem with the magenta AH dye remaining on all my Ilford films in all sizes. However, I recently started using Prescysol EF as a developer and in the instructions it suggests that if you have this problem then leave the film to stand in water for 3x5 minutes between the stop and the fix. After fixing wash as usual. I did this (actually I did 3x4 minutes because I had time pressures) and it worked a treat! Previously the dye was visible on my films despite a 5 minute pre-soak. It might be to do with our hard water, I'm not sure, but the 3x5 minute soak after the stop works for me. Might be worth a try.

    Barry
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  6. #16
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwakel View Post
    It might be to do with our hard water, I'm not sure, but the 3x5 minute soak after the stop works for me. Might be worth a try.
    It could be the water quality.

    I don't think it's anything to do with the fix as the AH layer is on the other side of the film, not the emulsion side.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  7. #17
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    My presoak is in distilled water....

  8. #18
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Where i live the water is used for bottling (spa blue). So the water quality is perfect.

    Ilford does not speak about this in their brochures...
    I will try to contact them what they say about it.

  9. #19
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    I just developed more FP4+ last night and the water in my presoak was blue... I wonder if you have old film? All the best. Shawn

  10. #20

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    When I started tray developing HP5+ a few years ago, I had fairly dark GREEN pre-soak water after a 1-minute soak. I queried Ilford if it was due to AH layer. Their response:

    "You are correct. The change you saw in the color of the pre-rinse bath was a result of the antihalation layer in the backcoat of the film. This effect is normal. Often when a pre-bath is not used or the processing time is short, this dye remains in the image. However it has no photographic effect and does not affect printing."

    I did not follow up with them to ask whether this includes VC printing.

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