Questions on T-Max 100, T-Max Developer and list of developers i can buy
So......I developed my first roll of 120 film yesterday after many years.....
I used T-Max 100 6 x 6 film and developed it with:
- Kodak T-Max developer at the 1:4 recommendation for 7 mins 30 secs at the 21 degrees my solution was at.
- followed by Kodak stop bath for 30 secs agitation
- followed by 3 mins 30 secs of Ilford Rapid Fixer....
- then washed it using the Ilford Method....
- then i dipped the reel into water with Kodak Photo-Flo for one minute....then hang it up to dry.....
Anyway.....the questions.....as I also have T-Max 100 4x5 sheet film i wanna use with my Sinar F2
- I read from the Kodak documentation that you can't use T-Max developer for 4 x 5 sheet development....but to use the T-Max RS Developer....is this correct???? If so I cant get hold of that developer so which other developer would you recommend to go with the T-Max 4 x 5 sheet film
- the fixer is recommended, on the bottle label from 2-5 minutes....i went for 3 mins 30 secs as like a half way....anyone have any vies on that for T-Max 100?
- Is T-Max developer a one-shot developer or can it be mixed and stored??? i.e. i threw out the developer after i used it (500ml when mixed up...100ml of developer and 400 ml of water....ok, this is the part where im hoping i got THAT right!!!) but that seemed like a waste....
Last edited by sperera; 04-17-2009 at 09:11 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Tmax developer will cause fogging on sheet film. That's why Kodak says use the RS version. I think Tmax, mixed 1+4 can be re-used a certain number of times but I don't think you get consistant results reusing developers. If you want to save money, mix it 1+7 or 1+9. Kodak has a PDF on the Tmax films that gives times for these dilutions. I use the 1+7 for Tmax 400 and have always liked it.
For Tmax 100 I prefer Rodinal 1+50 for 11 minutes at 20C. It works for sheet film or roll film. Use the Ilford fixer for 5 minutes; Kodak recommends that time for rapid fixers with Tmax films, they need longer fix times than regular films.
D-76, XTOL, or HC-110. All are utterly dependable. All work exceptionally well with TMax 100. All are extremely economical.
thanks guys!!! but doesnt Rodinal give you big grain????
This is the complete list of developers I can get hold of in Spain....I cant buy from anywhere else cos of the 'dangerous liquids' restrictions on posting them to Gibraltar.....this online shop doesnt do any Ilford ones but I can get hold of Ilford as well I'd say....
ARGENTI Weston Pyro
Rollei ATP DC
Paterson ACULUX 3
Argenti A-03 (like Microphen)
Tetenal Neofin Blue
A-49 revelador de grano ultra fino
Rollei Print Retro (RPR)
Rollei LOW CONTRAST
Rollei HIGH CONTRAST
Rollei High Speed
Rollei Low Speed
Last edited by sperera; 04-17-2009 at 09:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Good Morning, Sperera,
For many years, I developed T-Max sheet film in regular T-Max Developer. I had simply failed to notice the warning on the bottle. Since I was having no problem, I continued to use it and do so today. My normal dilution is 1:7 from concentrate; my normal developing time is 10 minutes for T-100 and 9 minutes for T-400, using a rotary drum. My sheet fim negatives are pristine, with no evidence at all of dichroic fogging or any other problem. I'd recommend trying the regular T-Max Developer with some non-critical negatives; if you see problems, then try the RS version. Regular T-Max can be mixed into a stock solution which is further diluted for use, but why bother? You'll just have one more bottle of chemicals to store. Mixing small amounts from concentrate, at least for the occasional user, is much more efficient, and the concentrate keeps very well.
As Chris has indicated, your fixing time is short. I fix T-Max film for at least 5 minutes (Kodak Rapid Fix) and don't worry if it ends up being 6 minutes sometimes.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)