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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by B&Wpositive View Post
    Just a warning: some of the recent Ilford Rapid Fixer bottles had incorrect labeling; the directions were given for Ilford paper fixer. Thankfully yours were correct and you mixed it properly 1+4
    ....
    But I've had the same issues as you with one roll (or even part of a roll) being lighter. I think I am going to have to get better tanks and reels (stainless?) that I can invert (using plastic patterson ones currently).

    Interesting. Yes, my Rapid Fixer had the wrong directions (or rather, only paper directions) but I downloaded the documents from Ilford's website when I was first mixing up all my chems.

    My Paterson tank is actually my best. It has a good rubber lid to do inversions. I haven't been inverting though, because all the instructions I've read don't say to. My agitation consists of spinning the reels twice, then crisply sliding the tank forward and aft a few times, then left and right a few times, then spinning the reels again twice. Usually about 15 seconds of agitation total.
    My other camera is a Pentax

  2. #12
    David William White's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmamigo View Post
    Thanks for the input. I will try fixing them again -- I didn't know you could do that.

    I mixed it to 1+4.

    The Ilford Rapid Fixer instructions say 2 to 5 minutes. I started off at 5 minutes for a few rolls, but read somewhere that you could "over-fix" so I thought I'd be conservative and drop it back to 3 minutes.

    How long is too long in fixer?
    I did some tests that I reported over on RFF to objections on overfixing. I went for three days with just a barely perceivable loss of density, which fell, I believe, within experimental bounds. I can explain more if you need, but everyone over there agreed that up to 10X the recommended time posed no issues whatsoever. I did that with sheet film and with a paper print.

    The point of fixer is to remove the unneeded and unexposed and undeveloped silver halides in the emulsion, leaving behind your glorious image in silver metal. Fixer desolves silver halides, not silver metal. Leaving light sensitive silver halides through insufficient fixing leaves material that will slowly reduce to silver or a layer of fog. The chemists around here can probably explain this better, but basically the upshot is that if you leave some trace of light-sensitive silver halide emulsion on your film, it will do what it is designed to do and darken.

  3. #13
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I always use the twiddle stick when I use plastic tanks. I think it's just as good as inversion, and I don't have to put the lid on.

  4. #14
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Just for kicks, check the film edges on the two rolls to see if they are the same emulsion batch.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  5. #15
    trexx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
    For what it's worth, I always use the twiddle stick when I use plastic tanks. I think it's just as good as inversion, and I don't have to put the lid on.
    Actually it is not, or at least it can be depending on how you twiddle. Depending on how the spiral is placed on the center post it is open when turning clockwise or open when turning counter clockwise. So one way the developer is being forced into the spiral and the other it is not. Most people won't know the way the spiral is on the center post.

    Now if you tend to turn in only one direction and that is not the direction to force the developer into the spiral uneven development can take place. If I need to use a twiddle the process is three in the direction to scoop with the spiral then one in the other, that counts for one inversion. Then repeat 5 times every 30.

    TR
    D-76 is a standard developer, although not one I use.
    Ansel Adams - The Negative

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