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  1. #11
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Well, the product description says that it is non-hardening, but I'm not putting too much faith in that.

    If it goes bad in 4 months, I'd better use it one-shot too. My kodak fixer was pretty much immortal, and with a capacity that resulted in my throwing it out before it was exhausted anyway. Maybe it wasn't so bad after all, it's just that my film has been curling and I was told that non-hardening fixers would help with the curl.

  2. #12
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Non hardening fixers only help with films that have no built-in corrective measures for curl. A well designed film will not curl regardless of fix.

    PE

  3. #13

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    I use this fixer for film and papers. I've been shooting a lot of Ilford Delta (100/400/3200) and fix with it at 1:9 for 3.5 minutes without any drama.

    As for papers, I also fix for 3.5 minutes. However, I always use a fresh batch of fix for fiber printing and dump the "used" batch for film fixing. Soak for 3+ hours and it's perfect.

    On the other hand, it's not odorless. lol

    If you talk with the Freestyle Photo folks, from time to time, they'll let on as to who is really making their branded products.

  4. #14
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    Hi Better,
    I use it 1:4 for film, which is what it says on my bottle. My bottle is a coupla years old, though. I just use it when I am too lazy to mix up a new batch of F-24.
    My Tri-x is clear by the time I get the lid off the tank.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  5. #15

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    Better Sense,

    Five minutes in a rapid fix is much to long. Either the product is bad, or it is delivered too dilute to begin with. I use Ilford Hypam/Rapid Fix 1+9 for film one-shot and it clears conventional films right at 30 seconds. This is weaker than the standard Ilford recommended dilution. I use it only when processing small amounts of film (less than 12 sheets or so). Using the weaker dilution requires a slightly longer time. I discussed the practice with the Ilford tech department some years ago and received their confirmation of its viability.

    You can use your fixer up, one-shot, and then try a stronger dilution. Just do a clip test to find the time needed for full fixing. Multiply the clearing time in fresh fixer for the film you are processing by three (not two, as is so often heard). Use up your 1+9 mix and then try a stronger dilution. If you still have long times, maybe you need to switch to a more standard brand...

    Best,

    Doremus Scudder
    www.DoremusScudder.com

  6. #16

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    If it is a Clayton, use 1+4 dilution for film. I use the Clayton odorless fixer as it does not stink up our bathroom the way other fixers do.

  7. #17
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    It seems like temperature might be a big factor. Yesterday was a hot TX day and all my chems were around 28C. I used ice on the developer to get it down to 24C but I didn't bother with the fixer. I expected the 1+9 dilution to take 5 minutes or more like the previous test but when I pulled out my test-scrap from the lid of my tank at 2 minutes it was utterly clear. If I could fix that fast all the time I would be pretty happy, but we'll have to see.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doremus Scudder View Post
    You can use your fixer up, one-shot, and then
    try a stronger dilution.
    Or weaker. I've done worse case testing for the amount
    of concentrate needed to fully clear one roll of 120 film.
    For fresh rapid fix, ammonium thiosulfate concentrate,
    I found that 15ml will do the job. As it aged I upped
    to 20ml. So, with the 500ml fixer volume I use
    the two dilutions are 1:31 and 1:24.

    One catch, fix times increase as the dilution increases.
    My times were running a good 10 minutes; agitation,
    1 minute at start then at 1 minute intervals.

    So much silver, so much fixer. Fresh fix each roll/rolls.
    Dump when done. Dan

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