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  1. #1
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Arista Premium Odorless Liquid Fixer

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/6200-A...2.5?cat_id=303

    I have several questions about this fixer. I recently bought it instead of Kodak fixer because it is non-hardening, convenient liquid, and a rapid fixer. The bottle says to dilute 1+9 and fix for 1-2 minutes, paper and film. The freestylephoto.biz description says that it clears film in at most 30 seconds!

    I didn't trust it and so I tested it at 1+9 and it takes a good 5 minutes to clear TriX, which is not significantly faster than my Kodak fixer was. I usually fix 10 minutes or more with Kodak fixer.

    I think that perhaps the directions are in error. I know that Illford fixer is supposed to be diluted 1+9 for paper and 1+4 or something for film. Perhaps I should dilute this fixer to 1+4 when I use it for film?

  2. #2

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    You should probably use it at 1+4 for film. 5 minutes is much too long a clearing time for Tri-X, especially since fixing time should be twice the clearing time. In fact, 5 minutes is a suspiciously long clearing time, even at 1+9. Is there precipitate in the fixer?

  3. #3

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    Bad fixers develop a precipitate, as psvensson aludes to. They also develop an odor of rotten eggs, although I don't know if that would be discernible above the ammonia odor of many rapid fixers. Like psvensson, I'm suspicious that your fixer has gone bad.

  4. #4
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    Well, I didn't sniff it, but neither did I notice a smell. The bottle is brown so I didn't see a precipitate, but I didn't shake the bottle up first either. I got it still sealed from Freestyle last week, so it's probably not that old. I tested it by putting 10mL (9mL of which was water) into the lid from a 100ft bulk film can, tipped up sideways so the fixer ran down to the corner where it got deep. I put a slice of exposed but not developed TriX in it and agitated rarely. It took exactly 5 minutes for two trials. After that I did the same test with some well-used Kodak fixer and it took about 5 minutes, as expected, which is why I fix for 10.

    After my test I was a bit annoyed because I have already diluted 500mL of it 1+9 and put it in a glass bottle.

  5. #5
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    I have tested many fixers which just do not live up to the ads about the fixing activity. I have also gotten a few that go bad days, weeks or just a few months after I have gotten them either by delivery or from a store.

    I must add that I have run fixing tests with 3 different films and 3 different papers and gotten different clear and fix times for all 3 films and all 3 papers, and therefore writing out instructions becomes a difficult task in some cases. And, a change in a product will change the result.

    PE

  6. #6
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    Luckily, I usually include a scrap of exposed film in the lid of my developing tank. I can then see that the scrap has fully cleared before I stop fixing, assuming that the "real" film inside has surely cleared if the scrap in the lid has. So I guess i don't have much to lose, I will use my 1+9 for as long as it takes, and when that is gone I'll mix 1+4. It kind of ruins the point of going to a rapid fixer though.


    How do you test for paper fixing?

  7. #7
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    1+9 dillution is usually used for paper, I bet 1+4 is for film (and fixing paper faster, too). MSDS says it's made by Clayton Chemicals http://www.claytonchem.com/, you can contact them for proper information.

  8. #8

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    I have used plenty of this stuff. I had to increase my TriX time of 6 minutes to 8 minutes for TmaX fixing.
    I'm doing 1+10. I use it one shot and in goes bad in about 4 months. As I use HC-110h and 1+50 Rodinal, my fixer costs are higher than my developer costs. I'm thinking of mixing my own odorless fixer: http://www.jackspcs.com/tf2.htm

  9. #9
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    If you want fast fixers, then just hang on. TF-5 and Super Universal Fix may help. They are being worked on at this time.

    How to test papers.....?

    There are several ways. One is to do a fixing time series with a good wash after each time such as 5", 10", 20", 40" and 80" fix followed by a 10' wash. Then try a drop of retained silver test solution on the strip of fixed paper. This is merely sodium sulfide solution. If there is silver halide present, the paper turns black or gray depending on retained silver.

    Another way is to mix Ammonium Ferric EDTA (100 ml of the standard solution) into your fix so for 1:9 use 1 part fix, 1 part NaFeEDTA and 8 parts of water. Then develop the paper until it is black, wash well and place in this pseudo blix. Time the vanishing silver image. The time will give you a rough fix time for the paper.

    I could probably come up with a few more.

    PE

  10. #10

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    Did they change the formula? I bought some 2 or 2 years ago and was told that it was hardening. (Which was not what I wanted, but I ended up using it with film, so it didn't matter)

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