Well, the negatives are dry. The cheap point and shoot I had the roll in doesn't have the sharpest lens out there and it has no way to adjust the shutter time, so I lost some detail. But I think I'm close to having the developing time right at 12 minutes. I'll let y'all look and tell me what you think. I've only managed to get 2 shots uploaded so far. The internet is so slow on my end the last few days. Lots of router problems here in Georgia haven't really helped. I keep timing out trying to upload.
I've converted these to b/w in hopes of getting more detail, but I don't think it helped a lot but it makes them look more "traditional".
The Norfolk Southern RR Signal Shop in town:
And a shot of the lake in my subdivision.
These negatives didn't come out as dark as the last ones. I could actually tell they were negatives without using a strong backlight.
Well, Michael, you've got pictures.
John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA
I'll probably keep using the Caffenol for more "artistic" photos, but I am planning on buying some commercial developer. The good thing about all of this is that I have gotten confidence in myself that I can develop my own negatives at home without any major problems. Plus, I enjoy doing it!
Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/184.108.40.206 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/220.127.116.11.0)
PM Toffle. Tom wrote and article or the magazine and has been developing in Caffenol for a long time. Course, being around to help God name dirt, I guess he would have had to get around to it eventually. ;P
Alas, despite the pitiless goading from Chris, I have little to offer on the subject. I've always been too much of a chicken to try coffee on my films, but I use it regularly in my paper developing. If I ruin a print or two it's no big deal, but if I spoil a roll of negatives, I'd end up kicking myself. If you want to see my results with printing, they are hidden somewhere on my mess of a website.
Originally Posted by Christopher Walrath
Your images work well within what you are trying to do, and you have a real keeper in the window display shot. (I'm at the stage where I hope for a real keeper every two or three weeks... ) I'd suggest you continue your experiments, keeping an eye on the variables, and in the process hopefully finding a process that gives you consistent and satisfying results.
Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada
Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points
system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I checked out Photography (6th Edition) by London and Upton yesterday because of the section on developing film interested me. I was reading it before bed last night and it appears that I may be over fixing my film in the latest roll and "erasing" details in my photos instead of it being a problem with the camera used. I think I have the developing time pretty well down at 11 minutes, so now I just have to get the fixing time down.
But I am having fun now. Experimenting with chemicals that aren't very dangerous and playing around with my cameras sounds like good times to me. And at least I've got a developer and fixer that are pretty cheap for me to experiment with!
More pictures to come when I shoot off another short roll of film. In fact, I'm about to get the bulk reloader out and roll another 10 shot roll now.
Fixer time is easy - take the film leader that you snip off to load the film on the developing reel and drop it in your fixer. Time how long it takes to clear. Your fixing time is twice, (some say three times) that clearing time. To check how your fixer's doing, when the clearing time doubles from that of freshly made fixer - toss it.
Keep up the enthusiasm Michael. With luck it'll never desert you.
"Why is there always a better way?"
I think in order to reduce details you need to leave your film in fixer for a very long time. For example if you processed a roll of film and left it in the fixer overnight then maybe. If your fixing time is supposed to be 5 minutes and you leave it in for 10 minutes or even 20 minutes, there shouldn't be any loss of image detail.
Originally Posted by McFortner
Use the clearing test. Snip off the leader, put a drop of fresh fixer on it, wait 30 seconds, drop it in a tray of fresh fixer, start timing, when you can't see where you put the drop, that's your clearing time. Fix for twice that, with films that are "hard to fix", like Tmax, give it 3 times. Make a note of the clearing time. When you start a session in the darkroom, repeat the clearing test, if the time to clear is over twice that of fresh fixer, your fixer is pooched, pour the fixer into your spent fixer jug and make a fresh batch. First thing you do with your fresh batch is the clearing test. Clearing time with a fresh batch of the same fixer should always be roughly the same. If the normal clearing time is 45 seconds and your new batch is 40 seconds or 50 seconds, close enough, if your last batch was 45 seconds and your new batch is say 2 minutes, the batch is suspect, so try again.
See my Blog at http://clickandspin.blogspot.com
The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....