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  1. #11

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    I *think* you can tell the hewes reel from the clip at the center? It's a square flat tab of metal, rather than a wire look like on other reels.

    You can get TXP in 120. (if you do give up I'd be interested in buying your 220). It's a great film, not better or worse than Tri-x, but different, especially for portraits:
    Vince Donovan

  2. #12
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    Tear off the paper, leaving the tape on the end of the film. Make sure you have the spiral in the right direction, in this case, it would spiral out to the right.If you are right handed, hold the reel in your left hand with your palm up. Put your thumb and middle finger around the spindle. pull down the spring clip with your middle finger while at the same time, forcing the film end under the clip with sort of a pinching motion with your thumb and middle finger.
    When you get ready to load the reel, hold the film, still rolled in your right hand, leader torn off where paper meets film, emulsion down and curve the film into a gentle arc across its narrow dimension. Then, press it into the clip as described above. When the film is fastened in the clip, use your fingers to feel from the outside of the reel to make sure the film is centered on the spindle, and relatively straight (THIS IS THE KEY) and as you roll it onto the reel, maintain that slight arc, which acts as a natural guide for getting the film into the slots between the wires. when you get to the other end, gently tear off the paper and guide the end into the reel with slight pressure on its edges, maintaining that arc as before. when the film is on the reel, you can feel along the outsides of the reel. If any film is sticking out, something is wrong. Also, it helps after the reel is loaded, to gently slide the film back and forth in its track a little to make sure it is where it should be. There should be a slight amount of give or play in the film. if it wont slip around a little or makes cracking noises, you may have a problem.


    --sounds complicated, but takes much longer to explain in words than to actually do. If you practice a few times with a dummy roll while watching TV, you can get it easy.

  3. #13

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    My advice is to is not to use the stainless steel reels at all. I've loaded plenty of 35mm and 120 onto stainless steel reels, with only the occasional "twilight zone" loading sessions. 220 was always an exercise in frustration.

    Instead get a small JOBO tank and their plastic reel. Never a problem; completely straightforward with no drama.

    Take care,
    Tom

  4. #14
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
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    If you want to spend more money, different equipment is always an option, but if it's really that hard, you could just, like you said, switch to 120. I've found that with plastic reels, you sometimes get uneven or even NO development along the edges of the film, and also, if you screw up loading a stainless reel a few times before getting the roll on straight, it is usually much less catastrophic for your images, in terms of creases and scratches, etc., than with a plastic reel....to each his own!!

  5. #15

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    You may find it easier to skip the clip at the core of the reel. Other than that, it is easier than 35mm, IMO...and this is with cheapo Taiwanese reels that are tweaked. With a nice and straight Hewes reel, it would be a breeze.

    The reels are just like 135 reels, but taller.

    I use them not only for 220, but to do four rolls of 120 at once. I tape one roll to the end of another and roll them on as if they were a 220 roll. This means that with 120, I have the same amount of developer stock per emulsion area that I have with 35mm.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Duffy View Post
    My advice is to is not to use the stainless steel reels at all. I've loaded plenty of 35mm and 120 onto stainless steel reels, with only the occasional "twilight zone" loading sessions. 220 was always an exercise in frustration.

    Instead get a small JOBO tank and their plastic reel. Never a problem; completely straightforward with no drama.

    Take care,
    Tom
    I have no luck with the Jobo reel, unless I cut the film in half and process the halves separately. That's why I'm experimenting with stainless reels.
    Charles Hohenstein

  7. #17

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    The wide spaced Nikor reel/tank sets are by far the easiest way to develop 220 b&w film other than machine roller feed processing. The narrow spaced Brooks type reel is not very easy to use and the Paterson reels are even more difficult to use. I would love it if Kodak could sell regular Tri-X in 220. If you must use a Paterson reel then by all means round off the corners of the leading edge of the film and make sure the reel is completely dry before even attempting it. The old Ilford 220 film seemed to have a thinner base than the Kodak 220 films and were even more difficult to load.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chazzy View Post
    I have no luck with the Jobo reel, unless I cut the film in half and process the halves separately. That's why I'm experimenting with stainless reels.
    It's amazing that we have such different experiences. I was so frustrated trying to load 220 stainless steel reels that I almost switched back to 120.

    I use jobo reels with part number 04066 on one side and 04065 on the other. Silly question, are you pulling the red tab up out of the way so that the film will progress all the way to the center of the spool?

    Take care,
    Tom

  9. #19
    Chazzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Duffy View Post
    It's amazing that we have such different experiences. I was so frustrated trying to load 220 stainless steel reels that I almost switched back to 120.

    I use jobo reels with part number 04066 on one side and 04065 on the other. Silly question, are you pulling the red tab up out of the way so that the film will progress all the way to the center of the spool?

    Take care,
    Tom
    I'm using the 1501 reels (I can't find the part numbers), and I have removed the red tabs entirely.
    Charles Hohenstein

  10. #20

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    My reels are for the 2500 series tank, specifically I use the 2523 tank. I don't know much about the Jobo system, but I wonder if my reels have a greater diameter, thereby giving a wider space between the grooves? If you really want to stick with 220, this combination may be worth trying. Best of luck.

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