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  1. #11
    JLP
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    My mistake, i have used the European cl centiliter and confused that with cc.
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    Jan Pedersen
    http://janlpedersen.com

  2. #12

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    Jan, The problem is 1 cc = 1ml, not 10ml

    http://www.mathleague.com/help/metric/metric.htm

    middle of the page under volume... "From these units, we see that 1000 milliliters equal 1 liter; so 1 milliliter equals 1 cubic centimeter in volume."

    Best,
    John Bowen

  3. #13

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    Hopefully Mike will be able to give us details.

    Ed

  4. #14

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    A friend alerted me to this thread.

    I think Sean Dougherty has it right. We upped the KBr from 2cc for one liter to 3 cc for one liter.

    For 3 liters I upped the KBr from 8 cc to 12 cc.

    Seems to give better print color with a little more KBr.

    If we are going to print all day for 8x10 we mix 1.5 liters. KBr, if I am recalling correctly (on the road and not in the darkroom right now) went from 3.65 to 5.5 or 6 cc.

    If we are only going to print for a short time (rare) we will mix only one liter of developer.

    Amidol is so easy and quick to mix, (it mixes at room temperature) why would anyone want to mix a stock solution? The sodium sulfite should be fresh and that means mix before use or relatively shortly before.

    Let me know if anyone has any questions.

    Michael A. Smith

  5. #15

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    JLP, check your conversion factor. According to my conversion data 1 ml = 1 cc, and that's in line with what John is saying.

  6. #16
    JLP
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    Agree, i was using cl instead of cc a factor of 1:10
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    http://janlpedersen.com

  7. #17

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    I'm very intrigued by Moersch's Amidol Plus My printing sessions are usually short ( eg, an hour before work or late evening); so mixing Amidol even for Lodima is not cost effective. I usually use PF130; but, if Moersch has succeeded in creating a stable working solution, then a switch to Amidol is justified. Its currently not on Freestyle site but is available at RetroPhotographic. Any body with experience on this product?
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markus R÷hling View Post
    Apparently Wolfgang Moersch has developed an Amidol where the stock solutions will at least keep one year and the working solution for several weeks in full stoppered bottles. See http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/co...itiv/8/lang:en

    So far I haven't tried this developer nor do I know how it will work with Lodima. But I would be interested to know since I would like to use Wolfgang Moersch's Amidol in case I will order Lodima.

    Markus
    Markus;

    Thanks for the information. I will have to look into it.

    PE

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael A. Smith View Post
    A friend alerted me to this thread.

    I think Sean Dougherty has it right. We upped the KBr from 2cc for one liter to 3 cc for one liter.

    For 3 liters I upped the KBr from 8 cc to 12 cc.

    Seems to give better print color with a little more KBr.

    If we are going to print all day for 8x10 we mix 1.5 liters. KBr, if I am recalling correctly (on the road and not in the darkroom right now) went from 3.65 to 5.5 or 6 cc.

    If we are only going to print for a short time (rare) we will mix only one liter of developer.

    Amidol is so easy and quick to mix, (it mixes at room temperature) why would anyone want to mix a stock solution? The sodium sulfite should be fresh and that means mix before use or relatively shortly before.

    Let me know if anyone has any questions.

    Michael A. Smith
    Thanks Mike! However, 3 cc KBR for one lilter would be 9 cc for 3 liters, and not 12 cc IF THE AMOUNTS ARE PROPORTIONAL. Thus, the amounts must NOT be proportional....a very important fact to note for all of us, and I believe mentioned on your web site. So...what is the amount for 2 liters of developer? How does one extrapolate? I guess one might have to do some experimenting based upon the color one desires!


    Ed

  10. #20

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    Is the amidol that Photographer's Formulary sells okay for use with Lodima? I ask because the description on their web site says that it's best used with bromide papers...
    "What drives man to create is the compulsion to, just once in his life, comprehend and record the pure, unadorned, unvarnished truth. Not some of it; all of it."

    - Fred Picker

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