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  1. #11
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    There is nothing in those pix that a general-purpose developer and standard agitation procedures cannot achieve.

    Just because the shop did not push the film does not mean that they did not develop it to a higher contrast than you do by hand. Manufacturer's recommended developing times are the ones that worked for the manufacturers, not for all of us. Variables in shooting and processing create the need to experiment and tweak things a bit in order to match the manufacturers results. The key to calibration of this sort is matching the luminance range at the scene to the tonal range of the printing paper. If you shot in a 10-EV luminance range, and your prints look flat using filters 2 or 2-1/2, then your development time needs to be longer in order to match the contrast that the manufacturers achieved in their testing.

    It is not mainly a question of which developer to use. It is mainly a question of learning to develop to suit your desired contrast. You can simply develop your film to a higher contrast using whatever developer you now use. The most basic way to do this is by developing longer than you do now. Whether or not you also use exposure as a way to manipulate contrast depends on whether or not you want to change how the darker areas of your print turn out. I mentioned exposure because this has an extreme effect on contrast. If you are using an in-camera reflected meter exactly as the meter recommends, then you are always metering the same way, but you are not always exposing the same way. Doing this, where shadows and highlights fall tonewise has to do with how your metering pattern falls over the elements within each individual composition.

    Since you think your pix are coming out too flat, I might start experimenting with adding a little time to your development, while keeping agitation the same. This will give you more control, repeatability, and ability to analyze and compare the effects than will changing the method of agitation. As I said in the other post, perhaps start with adding 10% or so.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 04-26-2009 at 01:20 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

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  2. #12
    MFP
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    Thorough explanation, thanks for the advice, this helps a lot.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by An Le-qun View Post
    That's the same look I get from HP5+ rated at 1600
    That's what I was thinking. Similar look to several rolls I shot at a wedding, mostly indoors on a gloomy November day, with the film rated at 1600 and developed in Ilfotec DD-X for whatever the time I looked up on the Massive Dev Chart was. Normal agitation (for me): Continuous for the first 30 seconds, then four gentle tank inversions at the start of each minute.

    Ian

  4. #14

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    Okay, I think I understand what you are after. The good news is that you shouldn't have any problem getting this effect with HP5 and TMAX developer. There is a lot of contrast in both images and it looks like maybe more contrast than any film could handle without overexposing and underdeveloping, and possibly not even then, so if you always choose scenes like these that have really bright areas (like the bright area behind the guy and the bright area on the lower edge of the napkin) your chances of getting negatives like this are very high. Try this with your TMAX developer, shoot an entire roll of one scene with a lot of contrast, spool about a third of the roll of film onto a reel and develop it for the noraml time at the normal temperature according to the directions you have from Ilford for HP5. If that first strip isn't what you are after, develop the next third of the roll for 15% less time, if you still don't have what you want develop the third strip for 15% more than normal development time you used on the first strip. One of the strips will be closest to what you want and you can go up or down from there. Keep the agitation the same for each development run.
    Good luck
    Doug Webb

  5. #15
    MFP
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    ah! exactly what i was wondering, thanks

  6. #16

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    It may depend on where you are (or where you sent it out to) - I've asked a few labs in North America and unless otherwise specified the popular developers here seem to be Xtol or TMAX as already mentioned, often in rotary processors.

    But, as already mentioned, no reason you couldn't get similar results with a variety of developers depending on technique.
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  7. #17

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    You might try going to flickr and search for "HP5 <some developer>". For example:
    HP5 Rodinal -> http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=all&...rodinal&m=text
    HP5 Tmax -> http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=all&q=hp5+tmax&m=text
    HP5 D76 -> http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=all&q=hp5+d76&m=text

  8. #18
    MFP
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    I had done plenty of flickr and google image search for HP5+ developer combinations, and got fed up and came here. Today I was surprised, as when I went the camera shop they were actually able to do several phone calls and get the development information, it was HC-110, which is great, so I'm going to test out it and some development techniques or tweaks that were suggested and see how they turn out.

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