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  1. #11

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    I developed my first roll of Foma last night and whoa I noticed something odd. When I first washed the film with just water the water that came out was GREEN! Then the second wash yielded Blue water! The subsequent washes (3-4) were just a lighter shade of blue. What's that all about?

    Today I will be doing some printing and let you know about my results.

    Thanks for the help.

    ~m

  2. #12
    RobertV's Avatar
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    For the 120 roll film version this is normal. BTW the blue dye in the polyester film will stay, whatever you do to wash it out. This is normal.

  3. #13

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    You did a pre-soak? First, it's not necessary so you needn't bother with it unless you like doing it. I admit that pre-soaking is a reasonably ok way of tempering the tank, but there are other ways to accomplish the same thing. Second, that color you saw was the anti-halation coating coming off. It will come off in the developer too and does no harm. You might not notice the color coming off in the developer because the color can be neutralized by the developer. I've noticed this more with developers containing quite a bit of sodium sulfite like D-76. Not so much with Rodinal which contains almost none in the working solution.
    Frank Schifano

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by fschifano View Post
    You did a pre-soak? First, it's not necessary so you needn't bother with it unless you like doing it. I admit that pre-soaking is a reasonably ok way of tempering the tank, but there are other ways to accomplish the same thing. Second, that color you saw was the anti-halation coating coming off. It will come off in the developer too and does no harm. You might not notice the color coming off in the developer because the color can be neutralized by the developer. I've noticed this more with developers containing quite a bit of sodium sulfite like D-76. Not so much with Rodinal which contains almost none in the working solution.

    I presoak/wash my film as my first step because it was what I was told to do while in college. I was told it removes any dust and trace fingerprints you might have put on the film. *shrugs* I took it as truth.

    The color was just interesting; what is anti-halation though?

    ~m

  5. #15

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    I'd love to have been in that class if only to be there to tell the instructor that he (or she) was full of s**t.
    Frank Schifano

  6. #16

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    i was hoping to do very long stand development with some 4x5 arista.edu 100 (just fomapan from what i've heard). any suggestion on time/dilution?
    this is the first 4x5 shooting or developing i've ever done, so please be gentle.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by alanrockwood View Post
    Any thoughts about foma 100 with Rodinal in a rotary processor at 75 degrees?
    I thought I would refresh the question again.

  8. #18
    SMBooth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanrockwood View Post
    I thought I would refresh the question again.
    Ive using 8.5min @ 20deg C using 1:100 Rodinal. That's a starting point for you.

  9. #19

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    Foma 100 in 1+50 or more dilute is wonderful. The film seems very prone to drying marks with my water but has a unique look to it. I keep agitation to one swish per minute to control highlights as best I can and rate at 40-50 in the Leica depending on lighting.

  10. #20
    viridari's Avatar
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    I've really enjoyed working with Fomapan & Rodinal, but find that it scratches very easily when wet. I just hang them up with no squeegee and as long as they have had a wetting agent applied, they dry fine.


    Hector
    Mamiya C330
    Mamiya-Sekor 80mm f/2.8 "blue dot"
    orange filter
    Sekonic L-358
    Arista.EDU 200 (aka Fomapan 200)
    Rodinal 1:25, 5m @ 20C
    Vuescan

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