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  1. #11
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alessandro Serrao View Post
    I think the red sensitivity of Efke 25 is somewhat lower than the other emulsions. I've shot these pics late in the evening so I've de facto underexposed them but I've used the regular 6,5 minutes (adjusted for 19°C) as if the roll was exposed right.

    In fact the negatives are thin.
    Next I try to soup then more (say 8-9 minutes) and see what happens.

    Lesson leaned: overexpose 1 stop when you take pictures late in the afternoon or early in the morning if you use Efke 25...
    ******
    Of course, you changed exposure, also, because of the filter factor of your yellow filter, I assume.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anscojohn View Post
    ******
    Of course, you changed exposure, also, because of the filter factor of your yellow filter, I assume.
    I didn't change anything because of the ttl meter of my Nikon N90.
    Am I wrong?

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ektagraphic View Post
    They look okay to me...Try some of the Adox films.
    Adox Art and Efke are the same emulsions.

    The pictures look good to me, from an aesthetic POV. They do look like they are prints from thin negatives, however. Maybe your metering is underexposing them. What is your metering technique for the shots?
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  4. #14
    JPD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anscojohn View Post
    And why did you use a yellow filter with afternoon sun? A yellow filter would lower your contrast with morning or afternoon sun, which has a lower color temperature than middle daylight.
    You can use a yellow filter as a standard filter with Efke 25 and 50, since they are orthopanchromatic films that renders red darker and blue lighter.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Adox Art and Efke are the same emulsions.

    The pictures look good to me, from an aesthetic POV. They do look like they are prints from thin negatives, however. Maybe your metering is underexposing them. What is your metering technique for the shots?
    They are merely test shots and have been scanned directly from the negative.
    Maybe are they fogged?

    I rely entirely on the Nikon built in meter, put the camera in A mode and fire the shutter .

    Another problem comes to mind: the D-76 I have and used is homebrew, stock. The developer is actually 2 days old, the formula is the classic D-76. Maybe I have old metol or hydroquinone powders left?

    When I was preparing the developer I didn't heated water at 52°C but it was at room temperature.
    Maybe this caused overoxidation due to prolonged stirring (I've had difficulties dissolving hydroquinone).
    Last edited by Alessandro Serrao; 04-27-2009 at 05:06 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    Too many variables. To judge your first roll of a new-to-you film, dev in a new 'from scratch' dev(that's a minefield right there), with filter, not printed but scanned, on a questionable scanner then go on an analogue site and want them to guess what's wrong, when the pics seem OK but the subject matter is somewhat less than "ideal". Shoot 5 more rolls, under various settings and conditions, PRINT them if you can find an enlarger(there so cheap now), pick some that stump you THEN we'll have a chance to help. This way, with enough info we won't mind looking a bit awkward. Give us something to argue and disagree strongly about, that's the fun part, 'cause it's when we all learn.
    The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Harrison View Post
    Too many variables. To judge your first roll of a new-to-you film, dev in a new 'from scratch' dev(that's a minefield right there), with filter, not printed but scanned, on a questionable scanner then go on an analogue site and want them to guess what's wrong, when the pics seem OK but the subject matter is somewhat less than "ideal". Shoot 5 more rolls, under various settings and conditions, PRINT them if you can find an enlarger(there so cheap now), pick some that stump you THEN we'll have a chance to help. This way, with enough info we won't mind looking a bit awkward. Give us something to argue and disagree strongly about, that's the fun part, 'cause it's when we all learn.
    Yes, I agree on everything.
    But a cheap scanner is all that I have, I used reverse b&w so I didn't need the enlarger.
    The funny thing is that even reversing that roll yelds underexposed, low dmax (dmin if negative), muddy slides...

  8. #18
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    Too much variables and unknown parameters.

    Try to search out a new film with a known, proved developer. Then make a suitable print and upload it to the internet.

    I suspect a failure in your developer. Efke 25 with E.I. 25 should normally give regular negatives. I can advice you Rodinal 1+50 or 1+100 or a Beutler type developer: Tetenal Neofin Blau/Blue or Amaloco AM50.

    When this is succesfull you can go back to your home brewed developer and try to reproduce simmular results.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertV View Post
    Too much variables and unknown parameters.

    Try to search out a new film with a known, proved developer. Then make a suitable print and upload it to the internet.

    I suspect a failure in your developer. Efke 25 with E.I. 25 should normally give regular negatives. I can advice you Rodinal 1+50 or 1+100 or a Beutler type developer: Tetenal Neofin Blau/Blue or Amaloco AM50.

    When this is succesfull you can go back to your home brewed developer and try to reproduce simmular results.
    It's difficult to mess up the d76 formula even as homebrew.
    Metol and Hydroquinone last almost indefinetly as powder so I really cannot pinpoint the problem here. Plus, the same very roll processed as a slide yields underexposed slides so I'm inclined to think of underexposure problem.

  10. #20
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    Another problem comes to mind: the D-76 I have and used is homebrew, stock. The developer is actually 2 days old, the formula is the classic D-76. Maybe I have old metol or hydroquinone powders left?
    MQ are the basic active developing compounds so if you have messed up this step I doubt the developer is trustable.

    But a good double check is to develop a known film in your D76 homebrew and look at the negatives.

    I never start with a home brew developer and an unknown film but I have only 41 years film experience

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