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  1. #1
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    paper developer: high diluted versus low

    Hi,

    if i for example use a 1+9 paper developer, develop a print and do the same for a 1+4. (kentmere vc select, 90 seconds at 20 degr celc.)

    I notice that the 1+4 has more deep blacks than the 1+9.
    Has anyone got the same results?
    extending the time of the 1+9 to for example 6 minutes will result in the highlights start to develop off white.

    Until last week i always used the 1+9, but now i start to question myself if the 1+4 for give me a improved quality image.

  2. #2

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    If your paper is fiber base, I would go a minimum of 2 minutes, for starters. You don't say which developer you use, so hard to comment on the dilution.

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    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Paper emulsions develop much more rapidly than film emulsions and are often self limiting. Therefore at 1:9 the pH can drop from 10.0 to 4.5 (by actual measurement of surface pH) due to exhaustioin of the alkali and release of acid. This will reduce dmax in some papers. Also, exhaustion of developing agent becomes important.

    But, the advice to use 2 minutes is good and 3 minutes might be even better.

    PE

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    As an adjunct to these comments I experimented yesterday evening with a very dilute solution of ID-78 (1+19) compared to a more usual dilution of 1+3. After approximately 10 minutes in the developer, the image still didn't appear fully developed, whereas @ 1+7 after 5 minutes the image did appear fully developed.

    Tom.

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    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    Hi,

    if i for example use a 1+9 paper developer, develop a print and do the same for a 1+4. (kentmere vc select, 90 seconds at 20 degr celc.)

    I notice that the 1+4 has more deep blacks than the 1+9.
    Has anyone got the same results?
    extending the time of the 1+9 to for example 6 minutes will result in the highlights start to develop off white.

    Until last week i always used the 1+9, but now i start to question myself if the 1+4 for give me a improved quality image.
    Yes, yes and yes. For more in-depth information, I highly recommend Dr. Richard J. Henry's book 'Controls in B&W Photography' 2nd Edition (unfortunately out of print). He tested this and many other subjects to death. I typically use Dektol 1+2, but for paper negatives, I use it 1+8 to make sure I get a very soft image and no Dmax.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  6. #6
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    As an adjunct to these comments I experimented yesterday evening with a very dilute solution of ID-78 (1+19) compared to a more usual dilution of 1+3. After approximately 10 minutes in the developer, the image still didn't appear fully developed, whereas @ 1+7 after 5 minutes the image did appear fully developed.

    Tom.
    thats our experience to!

    I use amaloco AM 6006 (i do not think its sold in the usa.) with kentmere VC paper. Of course when using baryta based papers i extend the time.

  7. #7
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    Yes, yes and yes. For more in-depth information, I highly recommend Dr. Richard J. Henry's book 'Controls in B&W Photography' 2nd Edition (unfortunately out of print). He tested this and many other subjects to death. I typically use Dektol 1+2, but for paper negatives, I use it 1+8 to make sure I get a very soft image and no Dmax.
    I found one copy for 12 dollar on amazon. Thanks.

  8. #8
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    I found one copy for 12 dollar on amazon. Thanks.
    You are very fortunate. This book typically sells for $200 and more, and even at that price, it is worth it. Enjoy, it's perfect!
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  9. #9

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    I agree with Ralph,

    Richard J. Henry's book is extremely good. I think I paid about 50 USD for my second edition copy.

    Tom.

  10. #10
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    there are more available second hand.

    I assume almost no one is really interested anymore in quality these days....

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