Can you develop colour film in Black and white chemicals?

[wclavey]

As someone above said, C-41 developed in B&W chemistry negatives do come out a bit flatter in contrast and I find that when printing, I generally start with a #3.5 or #4 filter. Here is a picture from a 5-yr expired (when I shot it) roll of NPH-220, 400 ISO, developed in Diafine. In addition to the orange base, I also had some fog to deal with. This is a negative scan with PS adjustment of the contrast - - the real print of it was made with #4.5 contrast filter, but a VERY LONG print exposure (120 sec at f/4.5).

But since I have multiple backs for my MF camera, I keep a roll of expired C-41 color in one back and then my "real films" in the others and I use it as back-up and for everyday shooting, since it is very cheap to come by. But I have been accused of being a penny pincher (or nickel pincher, in one case...).

[Photo Engineer]

See here:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum42/6...b-w-chems.html

PE

[WGibsonPhotography]

Just out of curiosity, I decided to give developing a roll of c41 in Rodinal a try. The film is hanging up to dry now. Hopefully I'll have some scans next week. I wont offer any judgements of the "test" until I get some scans (or prints if I just decide I want to give Wal-Mart's photo lab some money...)

BTW, the picture wclavey posted above is really nice even though it was altered in PS a bit

[Alex Bishop-Thorpe]

Colour film in Rodinal 1+100
It works a heck of a lot better than I expected...but I havent tried to print them in the darkroom yet. I must admit I like the massively excessive grain.

[WGibsonPhotography]

Colour film in Rodinal 1+100
It works a heck of a lot better than I expected...but I havent tried to print them in the darkroom yet. I must admit I like the massively excessive grain.

I developed my roll at 1:50 in Rodinal for 20 minutes at 70F. I think I might have developed it too long because the negs look pretty contrasty.

I like those pictures. Very nice. And I quite like the grain as well

[WGibsonPhotography]

well, I didnt get to print the negs, but I did scan them at school today (Yeah, I know. I did it "wrong" ). My enlarger is going to the shop in a few days, so this is the only choice I had. I'm about to post them to Flickr. I'll link when I get them up



Edit: My computer is being a PITA right now. Hopefully I'll get them up tomorrow :/

[WGibsonPhotography]

Well, after getting caught up with lots of stuff and not getting around to posting these, I finally got them on flickr. They look like crap, but here they are

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37189220@N08/3695707644/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37189220@N08/3694897215/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37189220@N08/3694897147/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3718922...7621053320140/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3718922...7621053320140/


I'm not a real big fan of them. This is something I wont be doing again, but it was a fun learning experience

[DutchShooter]

After reading a lot I decided to simply try.
My process:
-presoak 1 min in water
-Rodinal 1+100 - 1min agitate, 60min stand development
- usual stop, rapid-fix & wash.

At first I thought it went wrong, as I didn't see any pics...but that was due to the dark orange mask.
Pictures were taken with a ultracheap panoramic focus free camera without exposure measuring with a 1cm diameter plastic lens.
By my 3-year old son
On the cheapest c-41 film I could find locally (no-name ISO 200)
Here are some examples:

[steven_e007]

What is the reason for wanting to do this?

I've done it when I've found a colour film, either in the back of a draw or in a camera from eBay and I don't know what is on it. Could be nothing, or rubbish, or something ... unwholesome so I've chucked it in rodinal just to see (and of cause it always has wonderful pictures on it that I'd wished I'd got processed properly )

Quality wise I've always got hard toprint rubbish with no redeeming features that I can see...

Processing a Black and White C-41 film in BW chemistry is a different ball game altogether, there can be very interesting aspects to this.

[kittyhawk88]

Yes! it works..

I found a roll of 120 and souped it in D72 30 degrees C 15 minutes.. so found an old roll of colour film. Konica 100 ASA . Exposed at 80 ASA/ISO. EOS 500N.

Pre rinse 2 minutes. D72 30 Degrees C. 15 Minutes. 1 full minute agitation on start and 1 minute agitation at each 5 minutes.. Full rinse for 2 minutes, Fix 5minutes.

Negatives are nice and sharp just like Rollei 100.

Past failures:

20 degrees 7 minutes HC110
20 Degrees 30 minutes Microdol X 1+3

Looks like colour film likes being souped at 30 degress and twice development time..

Am going to develop all those cheap colour film.

HAve not got round to printing the negatives yet. Will post printing details later.

Must admit that orange mask interesting to print through..