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  1. #11
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    The color killer in lith is selenium alone.

  2. #12

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    Thanks Guillaume! So when you use the weak bleach (I have never used bleach!) with the Lith print, at what point do you stop?...I assume it does not literally bleach the print, but do you wait for the hilights and mid-tones to to dispapear and then put in the brown? Or is that part of the artsitic lcense ;-) I have to agree that I am in love with Polysulfide. It is simple to use and I find very controllable.

    Thanks!

    Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

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  3. #13
    Mateo's Avatar
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    actually brown toner has it's place with lith printing too. try 200:1 for 10 sec and then HCA. Oriental goes yellow in the highlights, very strong split. try without the HCA and you'll see why you need it. you don't see the toning happen, you see it in the wash and straight to the wash it'l be uneven.
    "If I only had a brain"-Some badly dressed guy made of straw in some movie I think I saw

  4. #14

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    Thanks Mateo...going to show my ignorance here...what is HCA...? Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

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  5. #15

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    Hypo Clearing Agent. It's used to reduce washing time for FB paper.

  6. #16

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    OK!...Hypo...I use it. Thanks!. k
    Kal Khogali

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    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
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  7. #17
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Kal, you probably don't want to bleach as far as taking both highlights and mid-tones out. If you use a weak bleach, experiment with times. It's hard to tell how long, because in my experience toning lith prints and the effects it gives depends on your paper and chemistry.
    When I use Ilford MGWT for lith, I bleach it in potassium ferricyanide (with bromide) in a 1+5 solution for between 1 and 3 minutes before I do the sepia bath. (I actually use the bleach that comes with the Kodak sepia kits). The time spent in the bleach varies the amount of sepia tone I get. I'm only interested in getting the effect in the highlights.

    The Hypo Clearing Agent bath is actually a good idea after any toner bath. Don't confuse it with Hypo, because that's a fixer; many people use pure hypo as a second fixing bath, just to make sure the fixing is archival.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

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  8. #18

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    Right I understand...I did mean Hype clearing which I use after fixing to improve washing...so we are talking the same thing (except someone in my darkroom could think it was fixer...since I label it Hypo!). Thanks for the info Thomas..I think I will invest in a bleach/sepia kit. If only to have the bleach available, but also to allow me to try the bleach followed by Sepia combination in the future. Rgds, kal
    Kal Khogali

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    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
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  9. #19
    Wolfgang Moersch's Avatar
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    Kal, it´s a wide sphere. Your intention is decisively and of course the nuture of the paper and the effect of toner formulation. Ask two photographers and you will get at least five answers.
    Perhaps I can give you one or two more.
    Lith + sodium sulphide, thiourea, carbon, polysulphide http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/co...en/131/lang:en

  10. #20

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    Thanks Wolfgang! I actually have a pdf version of some of your recommendations and experimentation that I refer to for advidce, but I just realised your link has so much more discourse about the options and ways to do this. So much more detail. I had always assumed it was a copy of what I had and never looked...!! That is is a treasure trove of a web site ;-)) I am off for a read. I have so much to learn :rolleyes:

    Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

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    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

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