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  1. #11
    cinejerk's Avatar
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    Thanks Ian. I just have so much D-76 that I thought there should be something I could do to use it.

  2. #12
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    5 gms of Sodium Hydroxide is very roughly equivalent to 50 gms Sodium Carbonate, so that could be a staring point to increase the pH and activity of D76 as Ron (PE) suggested.

    Ian

  3. #13
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    It will also raise the pH but lower the buffer capacity.

    PE

  4. #14

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    My own advice would be to not bother trying to adulterate D-76 into a reversal developer. Kodak sells D-19 powder in a yellow packet -- B&H sells it and I'd imagine it's also available elsewhere. It's much more suitable for reversal processing (once you add a bit of KSCN or sodium thiosulfate). Keep your D-76 for processing negatives!

  5. #15

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    Just for reference, this is the developer Kodak currently lists as a reversal film first developer:

    Kodak D-94 reversal film first developer
    Water (50C) 750 ml
    Metol 600 mg
    Sodium sulfite (anh) 50 g
    Hydroquinone 20 g
    Potassium bromide 8 g
    or
    Sodium bromide 7 g
    Sodium thiocyanate (51%) 9.1 ml
    Sodium hydroxide 20 g
    WTM 1 l
    pH at 27C = 12.75
    Specific gravity at 27C = 1.074
    Develop motion picture reversal film for 2 minutes at 20C or 40 seconds at 35C.
    Variation:
    Substitute 420mg of DTOD for the sodium thiocyanate. This variation is called D-94A. Note: DTOD is HOCH2CH2-S-CH2CH2-S-CH2CH2OH (1,2-di(2-hydroxyethylthio)ethane).

    This developer was designed for machine processing, and it is probably faster than you would like for small batches. D-19 with added thiocyanate might be a better choice. The second developer is similar, but without the thiocyanate:

    Kodak D-95 reversal film second developer
    Water (50C) 750 ml
    Metol 1 g
    Sodium sulfite (anh) 50 g
    Hydroquinone 20 g
    Potassium bromide 5 g
    or
    Sodium bromide 4.5 g
    Potassium iodide 250 mg
    Sodium hydroxide 15 g
    WTM 1 l
    pH at 27C = 12.15
    Specific gravity at 27C = 1.065
    After an 800 footcandle second reexposure, develop reversal film for 50 seconds st 20C or 20 seconds at 35C

    The second development goes to completion, so timing is less critical than for the first developer. Still, too long in the second developer chances fog. This second developer is pretty vigorous, and you might want to use something slower, maybe D-19 or D-72. I suspect that D-72 (undiluted) with added thiocyanate might make a pretty good first developer. Any comments?

  6. #16
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The major problem with D94 is the extremely short development times, particularly as the First development needs to be accurate, it's designed purely for mechanical processing of cine film

    A better alternative is the Filmotec/Orwo system as this is more practical for home processing.

    Ian

  7. #17
    cinejerk's Avatar
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    so even if I did buy D19 I would have to adulterate it with KSCN?

    What really blows me away is why in the original posting it shows D76
    diluted?
    Why would you do this if you need a faster acting/stronger developer?
    Last edited by cinejerk; 05-07-2009 at 12:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinejerk View Post
    so even if I did buy D19 I would have to adulterate it with KSCN?
    That converts it into D67 which is a Kodak published formula for a First Developer for Reversal processing. So hardly adulteration, rather adaption

    Ian

  9. #19
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinejerk View Post
    so even if I did buy D19 I would have to adulterate it with KSCN?

    What really blows me away is why in the original posting it shows D76
    diluted?
    Why would you do this if you need a faster acting/stronger developer?
    Well, did you see results from that post? Could it be an error? IDK, but I do know that both Ian and I are giving you sound advice as far as we know how.

    PE

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Well, did you see results from that post? Could it be an error? IDK, but I do know that both Ian and I are giving you sound advice as far as we know how.

    PE
    I'm with PE on this one. There are a lot of reversal formulas out there. (I even posted my own at one point.) Few of them are accompanied by "actual results". The ones that are published or manufactured by the major companies tend to be more reliable.

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