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  1. #11
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    Rodinal can give you much different results with various dilutions & times, than HC-110. I've used Rodinal from 1:25 to 1:100, and find I prefer the results of Neopan 400 & Acros in 1:50. Also the Efke 25, 100, and Rollei Ortho25 produce AMAZING results in Rodinal 1:50 as well.

    When using HC-110 with Tri-X, the results are quite pleasant. Under the proper lighting even Plus-X comes out great (more like a finer-grained Tri-X, which was agreed with by an EK tech). But when shooting in Vegas, the Plus-X gave less than promising results, would most likely use Rodinal next time around there.

    HC-110 1:50 is what I use for portraits in Tri-X and Efke 100. It gives an overall smoothing effect to the grain, while Rodinal is fantastic for architecture, landscape, and image study. However, if you dilute it 1:100, it can give quite a nice look with Acros.
    If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.

  2. #12
    Mark Antony's Avatar
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    For me Rodinal at 1:25 gives similar grain to D76 with the formats I use (120 mainly) and the print sizes I print at. As you dilute Rodinal you lose film speed and gain both compensating effect and grain appearance.
    At the moment I use Acros at EI80 with Rodinal 1:100 for 18 mins Neopan 400 at 320 with 1:50 I'm really liking HP5 Rated EI 200 1:100 on sunny days. Faster films I normally process in Microphen if I'm pushing, saying that I have used Rodinal to push delta 3200 in 120 and really loved the results.
    I guess that puts me in the 'church of Rodinal' its not the only developer but I like what it does, its flexible nature and shelf life.
    Give it a try, see how you like it with your photographic style-what have you got to lose?
    Mark

  3. #13
    RobertV's Avatar
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    I use Rodinal also in 35mm for slow- and medium speed film.
    1+25 - 1+100.
    It works nice on Efke 25 and Rollei Pan 25. Further APX100/Rollei Retro 100 on E.I. 80 and 1+50 is my favorite Rodinal combination. Acros 100 on E.I. 64 too.
    The above mentioned Rollei Ortho 25 in 1+50 -1+100 or in the Rollei Low Contrast document developer.

    Welcome in the church of Rodinal

    Here my favorit combo APX 100 - Rodinal 1+50. M7 + Summicron 2,0/50mm.



    The stuff last forever

  4. #14

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    I'm pretty agnostic, but I love the combinations of pan f+ and rodinal 1:50 -- just agitate gently and slowly; tri-x and hc-110 dil. b; neopan 400 and DD-X.

  5. #15
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I would like to explore this discussion further, if I may:

    What are the actual differences you see, by using either HC-110 or Rodinal, regarding:
    1. Tonality (mid-tones, highlights)
    2. Separation
    3. Grain
    4. Speed (shadow detail)

    I see a lot of this is nice, and that is not so nice, love this, love that, but without any specific information about WHAT it is that makes it so. Try to be descriptive, try to illustrate just what it is that you like, especially using the same film with either developer.

    For me, I already mentioned it. I think Rodinal is sharper, gives larger grain, has great mid-tone tonality and separation capability if you agitate gently. HC-110 exhibits more film speed, has finer grain (that appears coarse in my prints, though), compresses the mid-tones to feature less separation and depresses the midtones downward, while maintaining really brilliant highlights that can be difficult to handle (with regular printing, it's great for lith printing). I've done this with Kodak Plus-X and Kodak Tri-X as films, mainly.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #16

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    hc1110 vs rodinal

    all I know is that I used a lot of hc110(1:31) back in the day...with tri-x and looking back I find it to be one of the worst combos...now more diluted hc110 and tri-x might be better but hp5 and diluted hc110 is very nice...
    I now shoot 120 acros at box speed with rodinal 1:100 and lose nothing; but I am also in the bright florida sunshine so it does make a difference
    went recently from using diffuse lightsource to a halogen enlarger and the negatives print the same...usually on the 00 setting...
    all I can say is show me prints and then we can discuss it...differences may be more subtle than radical but to me it just works...I guess this puts me in the church of Rodinal!!
    Best, Peter

  7. #17
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Peter,

    Have Faith in the Rodinal!

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #18

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    In all honesty, you will get lots of opinions in either direction. Fortunately, it is cheap to try both and compare yourself.

    As with yourself, I went through the excercise of settling on a single developer. Based on shelf life, price and availability, I came up with Rodinal and HC-110. But for the films I use, I liked the way Rodinal looked. Once that was settled, I went through films that are nice in Rodinal. For example, with 400 speed film, HP5 is quite nice, but I actually prefer TMY2 in Rodinal. I do not use Tri X with Rodinal, as I find the grain too large. So, for high speed film, it is Rodinal + TMY2.

    Irrespective of the developer, I typically cut the film speed in half. I do not believe one developer is significantly faster than another (perhaps a 1/3 of a stop).

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    1. Tonality (mid-tones, highlights)
    2. Separation
    3. Grain
    4. Speed (shadow detail)
    Rodinal and HC-110 are my two developers, w/ Tri-x, a combo used for 98% of my work. I keep both on the shelf, b/c they're both incredibly flexible (Rodinal more so), but they're also extremely different from on another. Also, I use both 1+50.

    1) Rodinal is all about the mid-tones. HC-110 is the opposite of this, all about the highs and the lows...but mainly the highs.

    2) As above Rodinal has separation in the midtones, but uninspiring highlights. HC-110 has highlight seperation unlike any other developer I've used, sparkly.

    3) Rodinal is incredibly sharp, and once you get used to it everything else looks funny/soft afterward. Grain is there, but grain is controllable, and can be sharp and gorgeous once you learn the developer. I actually can get the grain pretty darn tight in Rodinal with the right mix of agitation and dilution. HC-110 isn't a low grain developer by any means imo. but less so than Rodinal, and moreover, simply, different. HC-110 can also build edge effects and accutance, but I don't think the sharpness there is as pretty as w/ rodinal...it has something to do w/ how it mixes with the other characteristics of the developer.

    4)Say at box speed, on the neg, I actually get more shadow detail with Rodinal than with HC-110. But this seems to go against what other say, and I don't have a densomiter or anything, so I'm likely not correct by the #s here. I do think HC-110 looks better at 800 and above. Rodinal can be interesting, but it get's a chalky graphic feel when I've pushed it. HC-110 really holds up and has less base fog.

    I really love both. I think Rodinal took me longer to learn what I wanted to do with b/c it's so transformable and is a developer that can be pushed to extremes w/ great effects.

    HC-110 has much much shorter dev times for my regimen, which is good thing if controlled, keeps the wet time to a minimum. This can make a subtle difference, but I believe it's there.

    In general, I look at it this way: HC-110 gives me a really great neg that I can pretty much take straight to print. Just looking at the negs, the shadows are already deep and the highlight already bright. Clean and easy, but it also takes on a delicate nature b/c of this (hard to put in words) and doesn't (for my work) hold up to any heavy handedness in the print. Rodinal is the very opposite. It gives me a really meaty neg that I almost never print straight, but there's so much there tonally that I can push the neg extremely far in the print, be heavy handed, and the further I go the better it looks.

    I wrote this all up quickly, but hopefully it helps!
    Last edited by GraemeMitchell; 05-20-2009 at 09:24 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: clarification

  10. #20
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Excellent descriptive reply, Graeme! Thanks. I'm glad we agree on most of it.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

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