I've been coming to the attention of 510 Pyro and it may be what I'm looking for in a developer. But, why isn't this stuff commercially available? Photographer's Formulary doesn't seem to offer it despite some other Pyro developers. From what I remember reading once mixed it lasts a real long time. Is there a commercial scource or am I stuck having to buy and mix the basic ingredients? Plus, I'm a little confused on how to make this stuff from what I've read online where it lists TEA twice as an ingredient, lastly TEA to make 100ml. I would appreciate clarification on this... Thanks.
you want to go to http://pyrostains.blogspot.com/ .
it is jay defehr's website. he is the person who came up with
that developer as well as a few other things. the site is
still active ( last post may 1 2009 ) ... i am sure all your questions
will be answered there ...
silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
artwork often times sold for charity
PM me for details
If you have not tried pyrocat yet, I would recommend it as it has been around a long time and I find it performs perfectly. Furthermore, Sandy King is here now for questions.
I've made some wonderful prints from negatives developed in 510 pyro. I found that it performs especially well with semi-stand development. I liked one so much that I sent Jay a print of it.
However, there is a great deal more general stain with it than with pyrocat. I agree with Michael that if there's no reason to use that particular developer, I would just use pyrocat. It's clean, cheap, readily available commercially from many sources, and there is just no better developer around. I see no advantages to 510 over pyrocat. I also found that the claims of shelf longevity I'd heard to be greatly exaggerated. My pyrocat stock solutions have lasted a lot longer than my 510 did.
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Sometimes with hobbies "not" running with the crowd is part of the fun. Working where there is little information, figuring out the right times, temps, and method gives as much enjoyment as the hobby itself.
While it's over my head, I have to believe Ron Mowery has a great time making his own paper and printing on it, Sandy working out all the different Pyrocats foir different styles of shooting or developing, and Pat Gainer working on different chemical formula's are just a few examples of people going on their own trek in the hobby.
I think there are a fair number of people here that like going their own way with the process. It's one of the things that make this site so interesting.
Last edited by mikebarger; 05-18-2009 at 03:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I mixed up some 510 a couple of years ago and tried it a couple of times. I found its film speed quite low but always thought I should try it again. I'm curious about your shelf life comment. How long did it last, and was it in glass?
Originally Posted by c6h6o3
I was curious about the longevity of the formula myself. I also use HC110 and it has a long shelf life.
Using Fred Pickers test method, I get full speed (400) from Tri-X 120, but only 200 from HP5 in 4x5.
I've got a batch of 510 from August 2006 that I save and run a roll through from time to time. It is all but gone. Film still looks good, but I also have some HC110 from about that same time that is still good and I've read the Rodinal users don't think Rodinal isn't even warmed up at that age.
510 Pyro being a one shot developer was one of its selling points for me. I use it in the same manner I use HC110, mix one shot, only what I need, and dump. Using two part developers isn't hard, just wasn't what I was used to.
I'm not sure how I end up with so many partial bottles, must be old age.
I generally store developer in 12 oz. brown glass bottles no matter the type, but will use plastic bottles if that's all I have.
Anyway, I probably wouldn't use a developer just because of it shelf life or lack of one. The finished product is a better gauge as to its desirability.
If you still have the 510, I wouldn't be scared of using it.
Artcraft sells the 510 kit "double" in size due to measuring ease of Phenidone at the larger quantity. I generally buy a double kit.
The single formula is
Ascorbic acid 5g
TEA to make 100ml
Granted not many use 510 Pyro, but it does let you make nice negatives.
Thanks for all your suggestions. As recommended, I'll try Pyrocat and see how that works for me then perhaps 510 Pyro if I really like the results of this type of developer.
Since you a new guy here....after you try the pyrocat, if you still want to try 510, let me know and I'll send you enough to develop a couple tanks of film.