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  1. #11
    Lukas_87's Avatar
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    Rodinal?
    it is liquid, I know... but will last forever.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperera View Post
    what i mean is which developer can i get that i dont have to use up within a short time and I dont have to mix all up once i open the package....I would have thought the powder ones would be the easiest to live with.....so which do you think is best option.....
    e.g. i bought some Perceptol.....I have to mix it all up once open....one would have thought there's a powder developer or whatever you can buy a lod of and mix up over 2 years even.....
    The trouble with powder developers is if you try and split out powders into smaller parts you can't guarantee the ratios of chemistry will be the same in each part. (In fact, if the Corn Flakes rule applies also to powdered developer - the smaller particles will naturally separate out to the bottom of the pack - then you can probably guarantee that they won't be.)

    For part mixing liquid developers are the way to go. I'll second (third, fourth, fifth?) the vote for HC-110. I've more or less made it my 'standard developer' now for reasons of economy and keeping.
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  3. #13

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    I'm getting confused with the terms "stock strength" and "stock solution you guys are using......

    for example, I have T-Max developer in its original 1 litre bottle and this is the spec. for it in the official Kodak pdf:

    STORAGE
    You can store working-strength solution in a full, tightly closed bottle for six months, in half-filled bottle for two months, or in a covered tank for one month. You can store the concentrate for up to two years.


    This is what I understand it to mean.....you can get the original one litre bottle of T-Max and mix it up to get a full 5 litres of mixed up developer (is this what you call 'working solution'???) and store it in a full, tightly closed bottle and use it over 6 months; and a half-filled one for 2 months etc

    "the concentrate for up to two years" - what do they mean by this???????.....it will store for up to 2 years if unopened in its original bottle

    OR like in my situation, I bought a 1 litre bottle in April 2009 and since then have used 400ml of it....I have 600ml left...so will this last up to two years cos its the original concentrate in its tightly capped original bottle = stock solution you guys speak of.....

    THAT IS THE QUESTION I AM ASKING IN EFFECT.....i'm not explaining myself very well perhaps.....WHAT DEVELOPER CAN I BUY THAT WILL KEEP IN ITS ORIGINAL BOTTLE WELL THAT CAN BE USED OVER TIME BIT BY BIT.....

    if T-Max can indeed be used bit by bit over 2 years then that sounds good to me....
    Last edited by sperera; 05-24-2009 at 09:39 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperera View Post
    if T-Max can indeed be used bit by bit over 2 years then that sounds good to me....
    The Kodak number is usually for an unopened bottle.

    I have used a bottle of T-Max developer slowly over a period of ~5 years with no problems.

    An alternative is to buy the stock chemicals for making developer as you need it. Sulfite, Carbonate, Borax and Bromide all last forever. Metol and Hydroquinone will last for more than 20 years if stored well.
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  5. #15
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    Sperera, I routinely buy powder developers (like ID11) and divide it to prepare aliquots for one-shot development. Keeps forever. I mean, in a pinch I used some old kodak powder mix from 3+ decades ago, and it wasn't stored specially.

    Actually even trickier developers like wd2d+ seem to keep for ages when properly vacuum stoppered and kept in separate part A/ part B containers. Do you have some wine bottles and (inexpensive) vacuum sealers? Then you can keep a lot of liquid developers just about indefinitely.
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  6. #16

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    Good Morninh, Sperera,

    Nicholas is right about the good keeping qualities of T-Max Developer concentrate. Unless I processed film on a very regular and frequent basis, I wouldn't even consider mixing a stock solution. It's much more practical to measure out an ounce or two or three of concentrate immediately prior to each processing session. Kodak recommends 1:4 dilution; I prefer 1:7 with somewhat longer developing times. Other users go with 1:9. As with any developer, a bit of testing on non-critical film is probably advisable.

    To get maximum life from the concentrate, just drop some glass marbles into the bottle each time you pour out liquid and be sure to cap the bottle tightly.

    Konical

  7. #17
    E76
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    Diafine is two part developer that will keep for at least a year, and can be used over and over without replenishment; however, it has the disadvantage of not allowing for any change in development time, therefore making contrast control quite difficult.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperera View Post
    .....WHAT DEVELOPER CAN I BUY THAT WILL KEEP IN ITS ORIGINAL BOTTLE WELL THAT CAN BE USED OVER TIME BIT BY BIT.....

    if T-Max can indeed be used bit by bit over 2 years then that sounds good to me....
    It sounds like with the rate you are using it and the keeping properties of T-Max developer, that you are just fine with it, but I have not used T-Max much so I am not sure.

    Definitely Rodinal and HC-110 will do what you want. One thing to note, with both of these developers, you will use very small amounts of the concentrate so getting some sort of small syringe, the kind used for liquid medicines, would probably be best. Also, if you decide to check out HC-110, do not follow the instructions on the bottle which call for making a stock solution out of the concentrate and then diluting it further for your working solution. I recommend just making a working solution every time you develop. There is a web site with great information on HC-110 including correct dilutions and such here: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

    I think that T-Max will do what you want, but that you will likely get longer life span with the Rodinal and HC-110 if you need or want it.

  9. #19
    sly
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    I'm on my second bottle of Rodinal in, oh, 15 years. The first bottle lasted about 10 years, I think. I like 1+100 semistand developing, so I only use a few mls at a time. I've never filled it with marbles or attempted to vacuum seal or anything. It turns very brown. It still works. Rodinal is reputed to have the longest shelf time - it runs into decades. I don't know if anyone has done decades long testing to see if HC110 or Tmax will keep as long.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Konical View Post
    Kodak recommends 1:4 dilution; I prefer 1:7 with somewhat longer developing times. Other users go with 1:9. As with any developer, a bit of testing on non-critical film is probably advisable.

    To get maximum life from the concentrate, just drop some glass marbles into the bottle each time you pour out liquid and be sure to cap the bottle tightly.

    Konical
    could you explain how much time you ue for a 1:7 and 1:9 dilution....I normally cant go below 21 degrees so dev. times for that appreciated....also, whats this about the marbles!!!???

    By the way....this is the complete list of developers I can buy in Spain....I cant buy from anywhere else cos of the 'dangerous liquids' restrictions on posting them to Gibraltar.....I can buy powder form from UK too.....so....any comments on the list....

    from Spain:

    Paterson FX-39
    Argenti D-74
    Argenti HI-TECH
    Argenti ULTRA-ISO
    ARGENTI Weston Pyro
    Finol
    Rollei ATP DC
    Paterson ACULUX 3
    Argenti A-03 (like Microphen)
    Tetenal Neofin Blue
    A-49 revelador de grano ultra fino
    Rollei Print Retro (RPR)
    Tanol
    Tonal Plus
    Fomadon EXCEL
    RODINAL
    Fomadon R09
    Kodak D-76
    Kodak XTOL
    Kodak HC-110
    Rollei LOW CONTRAST
    Rollei HIGH CONTRAST
    Rollei High Speed
    Rollei Low Speed
    Gradonal 250ml
    ISO-PLENO
    Ethol UFG
    Diafine
    Acufine

    from UK:
    Ilford ID11 Developer Powder
    Ilford Microphen Developer Powder

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