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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by synj00 View Post
    I've been using Ilford Delta 400 for forever ....

    As a new starting point ... adjust during printing?
    In your position I'd hope adjustments in printing would
    do it: Higher contrast paper and/or developer to start.
    The negatives themselves may be upped in contrast
    with a selenium or sulfide treatment. Dan

  2. #12
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    In your position I'd hope adjustments in printing would
    do it: Higher contrast paper and/or developer to start.
    The negatives themselves may be upped in contrast
    with a selenium or sulfide treatment. Dan
    Dan

    I believe selenium tone helps a little bit (1/2 grade) but sulfide does nothing for me. Actually, extensive sulfide toning lightly decreases contrast.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  3. #13
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    I've had good luck in this by increasing my development times - 15% is good advice for that. It's one single thing that I've done recently that has had the biggest effect on my images.

    Quantifying your methods by testing film speeds, dev. etc. is also good advice.

  4. #14
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Try using D-76 undiluted instead of 1+1 and extending the time. How much contrast do you want?

  5. #15

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    Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I often do find myself just barely getting enough light and I think this may be part of the problem. I'll try shooting to get an extra stop of light and give a bit less development. I'm just not pushing this film as far away from the stock box suggestions yet. I have to do it!!

  6. #16
    Toffle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    synj00

    I don't see anything wrong with your film or developer. Switching to new materials is rarely the answer. Let us see a sample print. In most cases, the following initial suggestion work the first wonders:

    1. overexpose for 1 stop from box speed (for you EI 200, just do it!)
    2. underdevelop (yes!) by 15% from manufacturer's recommendation

    Now print at grade 2-3! You'll love the results.

    Other things to watch for:

    1. light leaks in the darkroom
    2. safelights too strong
    3. developer concentration too weak
    4. print pulled too early from the developer

    It's not the materials, it's the process!
    Ralph, thanks for the reminders regarding process. Though I'd like to say I do these things all the time... I won't say I get lazy, but occasionally I'll allow myself in the darkroom when I am neither physically or mentally prepared. :rolleyes:

    Thanks again.

    Cheers,
    Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada

    Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...

    http://tom-overton-images.weebly.com


  7. #17
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    So your problem was basically underexposure?? What EI are you rating the film at??

  8. #18

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    Well I don't know if underexposure is the problem *yet*. I'm going to get a few rolls under my belt at shot at 200 and not 400 as I usually do. I've heard lots of fway froolks shoot 1/2 or 1 stop over what the film is rated on the box and it makes perfect sense. Since I'm usually getting thin negatives some overexposure wont hurt and maybe I'll get results closer to what I want. Like I said I think I'm just not pushing the film enough am the recommendations on the box.

  9. #19
    clayne's Avatar
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    If the guy wants more contrast, why are people recommending pulling the film? That will decrease contrast and compress the curve.

    synj00/sull3n: I've seen your photos on flickr. Trust me, you don't need anymore contrast. If, in digital-land, you want to play around with things you can shift the black point around. But as your monochrome stuff is now, I can't see how anymore contrast would be beneficial (however, more exposure would be beneficial [not pulling+underdev, but more actual exposure]).
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  10. #20

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    I have used Delta400 and HP5 for many years and develop in ID11 at their recommended time + 10% at 68 degrees F. I expose with my modified version of the zone system. Take into consideration the scene brightness. Keep the development standard and modify exposure , that way you will only have one variable to contend with. Once you have that down you can go from there with plus or minus developing times. I also print on multigrade paper with the Aristo variable contrast light. With this combination you can vary the contrast of any part or all of the print. Examples of my prints can be viewed in APUG recent portfolios.

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