Trying Tri-X for the first time.

[david b]

Somehow in my short "photographic" lifetime, I have never shot Tri-x.

So I just picked up a few rolls of the new medium format 400TX and plan on developing it in D76 1:1 for 9 3/4 minutes at 68, as per the box and kodak website.
I also plan on shooting it at asa 400.

Any advice?

Thanks.

[Donald Miller]

My experience with TriX is the 320 ISO sheet film. My tests on that film indicated that it exposes at 160 (to arrive at a .10 density above FB+fog) and that for a scene of normal luminance I expose it for 6 min 15 seconds in HC 110 dil B. These are for negatives designed for enlarging.

[Jorge Oliveira]

You have to look at manufacture's data as a good starting point.
There are lots of variables, such as your lighmeter precision, your metering technique, your termometer, etc.

So, I would start with standard times and exposute, and then look for:

- Is shadow detail good? If not, increase exposure (dowrate your film speed for metering).
- Is contrast OK? If lacking, increase development time.
- Are higlights blown up? If so, reduce your development time.

The above shall be done over a few rolls of film, with different scenes.

Have fun,

Jorge O

[Tom Duffy]

What Don and Jorge said. I would add, if it's your first roll, I would suggest you bracket a bit I normally rate tri-x at half the manufactuer's recommendation. there is a big difference in the tonal ranges of the printed pictures depending on if you are using tx400 or txp320. the tx400 give a long tonal range with good shadow detail and a very light gray instead of a brilliant white. txp gives a much stronger (bad word, i know) tonal range from deep black to brilliant white. with medium format, you can try both and see which you prefer.
d76 at 1:1 is a great starting developer for either tri-x.
Take care,
Tom

[ian_greant]

1/2 rate the asa???? Tri-X isn't fun until at least a two stop push.. Three is better

Who needs a flash? Not me!!

All kidding aside if I could only use one film in my MF cameras it would be TXP 320.

Ian

[david b]

I've just posted an image in the standard gallery from today. It's a bit flat but I don't do PS very well. I'll have it in the darkroom on monday to take a look.

I shot it at 400, developed in D76 1:1 for 9.5 minutes.

No on camera filters used.

[steve simmons]

So I just picked up a few rolls of the new medium format 400TX and plan on developing it in D76 1:1 for 9 3/4 minutes at 68, as per the box and kodak website.
I also plan on shooting it at asa 400.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Why this combination. D-76 is high in sod sulfite and the results won't be as sharp as a higher acutence developer. Try one of the pyro based formulae such as PMK. I woulduse an EI of 200-250.If you are worried about grain try a finer grain film like FP4+

steve simmons
www.cameraarts.com
www.viewcamera.com

[Cheryl Jacobs]

Why this combination. D-76 is high in sod sulfite and the results won't be as sharp as a higher acutence developer.

Ummm, because it's a classic combination, and for good reason! I use Tri-X processed in ID-11 or D-76 1:1 almost exclusively these days. The sharpness is very good, but not harshly so (yes, for the kind of work I do, there is such a thing as too sharp). The grain is definitely present, but is soft and beautiful. It yields a wonderful glow when properly printed.

Of course, the 'best' film/developer/paper combo is entirely dependant on how and what you shoot, and your personal preferences.

[dr bob]

You probably won't have any "problems" using TX or TXP. I certainly go with the posters in that TX-400 is (was) my favorite, until Kodak chose to stop the 4x5 and 120 production.

I have tried other films and keep coming back to Tri-X. It has something other films miss. The T-grain films have great linear gray scale reproduction but seem to miss something in the artistic vein. I can't explain it - I call it "heart".

Truly, dr bob.

[David R Munson]

TX is great stuff. I found that it worked best for me at EI 200 and EI 1600, developed for 6 and 16 minutes respectively in HC-110 Dilution B at 68º F. FWIW, though, pushing TX only seems to give me results I liked in 35mm. Never quite looked right pushing it in 120.