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  1. #31
    CBG
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    PE, in the Fixer Articles you have posted:
    Ammonium Hypo solution 200 ml/l
    Sodium Sulfite (anh) 10 g/l
    Ammonium Thiocyanate 10 g/l
    Thiourea 10 g/l
    As mixed the pH was 7.8 at 22.3 deg C. I adjusted it to 6.6 at 22.6
    deg C with about 12 ml of 28% acetic acid. As mixed, it has a faint
    ammonia odor, but after the pH is adjusted, it has no odor of
    ammonia. The pH range of this fix should be about 6.3 - 6.7.
    Is this Super Fix VII or an earlier version?

  2. #32
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    That is, AFAIK, an earlier version, namely SFI. I did not post it BTW. It was posted by another member who copied it from a very extensive thread on Photo Net. I am up to SFVII which has met the goal of duplicating the results of SFI, but with reduced wash times and better chemistry.

    PE

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Schrager View Post
    Dan-that formula is strictly for papers....one pound of thiosulfate;
    15 grams of sulfite and 64 oz. water....thank you for the TF2
    formula and it is not in the cookbook; at least the older
    edition Thanks, Peter
    "Strictly for papers" Not so. How do you come by that?
    A pound. Approximately a double batch of TF-2 minus
    the metaborate and half the sulfite.

    The formula is in The FILM Developing Cookbook.
    Just off hand I can't think of any fixer being either
    a paper or film fixer but not both. Dilutions
    may vary. Dan

  4. #34
    CBG
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    That is, AFAIK, an earlier version, namely SFI. I did not post it BTW. It was posted by another member who copied it from a very extensive thread on Photo Net. I am up to SFVII which has met the goal of duplicating the results of SFI, but with reduced wash times and better chemistry.
    PE
    I figured it was your post. My apologies!

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    That is, AFAIK, an earlier version, namely SFI. I did not post it BTW. It was posted by another member who copied it from a very extensive thread on Photo Net. I am up to SFVII which has met the goal of duplicating the results of SFI, but with reduced wash times and better chemistry.

    PE
    By Photo Engineer - 10:23 PM, 02-01-2006 Rating: None
    I am now up to Super Fix VII.

    Is there a formula for SFVII? If not, is somebody going to sell it?..Evan Clarke

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by eclarke View Post
    By Photo Engineer - 10:23 PM, 02-01-2006 Rating: None
    I am now up to Super Fix VII.

    Is there a formula for SFVII? If not, is somebody going to sell it?..Evan Clarke
    The formula posting has the ID title:

    superfix
    unregistered (10-31-06)

    The dating of the other posts appear to be in error as they are all dated prior to Sean's update of the articles.

    I have never posted any formula but SFI and have only referred to my ongoing work. Several individuals have samples of SFVIII. The formula will not be published.

    PE

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    The formula posting has the ID title:

    superfix
    unregistered (10-31-06)

    The dating of the other posts appear to be in error as they are all dated prior to Sean's update of the articles.

    I have never posted any formula but SFI and have only referred to my ongoing work. Several individuals have samples of SFVIII. The formula will not be published.

    PE
    Too bad, Thanks..Evan Clarke

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    No published findings that I know of except for the work
    by Haist and work I did at EK which is for the main part
    unpublished. I can back up most of the assertions on
    alkaline and neutral fixes as well from work

    I have personally done. As pH goes up, swell goes up
    (with bone gelatin) and washing becomes easier. PE
    No published findings ... Very few at the most. I find
    that odd considering how easy it is to compare washes
    at varying fixer ph.

    I've done a little testing with respect to comparing
    using the HT-1 and HT-2 tests. I like the HT-1 test. It
    uses potassium permanganate. A colorimetric titration
    is performed upon the wash water. A print or film must
    be a part of the test. Any more than a minute trace of
    hypo left in the wash water + paper or film will make
    colorless the permanganate.

    P.K. Turner suggested the use of permanganate when
    washing film. The test could be quantified but intuitively
    a drop of the PP solution left pink spells extremely low
    thiosulfate levels.

    Compare. Pit an acid fixer against a alkaline fixer.
    Keep notes, then Publish. Testing wash waters, films,
    and prints is routine for at least a few APUG members.

    I'd run tests myself were it not for the processing
    methods I employ; very dilute, minimal volumes,
    no stop, etc. A research grant could move me
    in that direction. Dan

  9. #39
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    Dan;

    There are many publications. I have probably nearly 200 internal reports at EK, but no public reports. So, sorry, but you will have to rely on the fact that I am trying to reproduce my work here at home as best I can without an army of analytical chemists to back me up.

    So far, things are looking good, but I may never prove it to you quantitatively. Sorry. The lack of publications is entirely normal in this field and is why the work "out there" is so patchwork in nature and so subject to potential loss. All I have is what is in my head. All I can do is try to pass it on. If anyone cares to refute or ignore it, then thats ok with me.

    PE

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    All I can do is try to pass it on.
    PE
    What is that saying about teaching a person to fish?

    I am not sure I understand why you don't post your "in house" testing procedure and then share your results.

    Perhaps you needn't prove anything...

    The one thing we need more than new unpublished formulas with limited testing and a doubtful future is sound training in basic photographic processing research and product development... If you have something to teach... as time passes us by - that will become the more valuable in the long run. (IMHO)

    I am sure many may be content to just buy the most recent product inexpensivly, and that IS fine.

    However, (I may be wrong!) but I think the most valuable lesson we will ever be able to learn from you is how to think like a Kodak researcher. Strange, but I feel that Kodak research was somehow better than the Kodak products that evolved from it.

    Perhaps that doesn't make any sense.

    Well, anyway, nice friuts are fine,
    but a working knowledge of agriculture is incomparable.

    Ray



 

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