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  1. #1

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    Developing time for Tri-X film

    Hi everyone, i got a question here about developing film here...

    I got a bulk roll of tri-x that I've shot a few rolls and I got a procedure list and chemicals to process it, but I would like to know how you guys do it and what chemicals you use.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    If its TriX 400 (arista premium 400) I use D76 1-1 for 10min @68F and Rodinal 1-100 for 22min @68F.

    Best thing is to pick one developer load some test rolls with 12 exposures and run some film tests.
    "Fundamentally I think we need to rediscover a non-ironic world"
    Robert Adams

  3. #3

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    There are 34,000+ members here, questions like this seem good for at least 70,000 answers.

    The most common choices, in no particular order are
    Kodak D-76
    Kodak Xtol
    Kodak HC 110
    Ilford ID-11 (equivalent to D-76)
    Rodinal
    D-23
    various Pyro formulations
    and a zillion more, even including coffee

    All work well, and can produce excellent negatives, everyone ends up with one or two favorites. If what you have is fresh and you can easily obtain more as needed, there is no reason not to use it. Once you've worked with it enough to understand how it reacts to variations of exposure and processing time, branch out to others if you feel limited.

  4. #4
    wogster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tossik View Post
    Hi everyone, i got a question here about developing film here...

    I got a bulk roll of tri-x that I've shot a few rolls and I got a procedure list and chemicals to process it, but I would like to know how you guys do it and what chemicals you use.

    Thanks!
    If you have no experience, the place to start is Kodak D76 or Ilford ID11 (these two developers are functionally identical) use the film at the speed on the box (box speed), and soup for the recommended time in the instructions that come with the developer or film. For Tri-X you can find the instructions online here.

    This is a starting point, once you do a couple of rolls, you will find that you may want to alter the exposure or development time, or both to get the result you want. Ask 10 photographers the best exposure and development time, you will get about 30 answers. This is mine.
    Paul Schmidt
    See my Blog at http://clickandspin.blogspot.com

    The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....

  5. #5

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    Well I have a bag of d76. So I'm thinking of sticking with kodak. But what I'm
    asking mainly are the proportions and times and the procedure to develop it. I want to compare with what my notes say

  6. #6
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdial View Post
    There are 34,000+ members here, questions like this seem good for at least 70,000 answers.

    The most common choices, in no particular order are
    Kodak D-76
    Kodak Xtol
    Kodak HC 110
    Ilford ID-11 (equivalent to D-76)
    Rodinal
    D-23
    various Pyro formulations
    and a zillion more, even including coffee

    All work well, and can produce excellent negatives, everyone ends up with one or two favorites. If what you have is fresh and you can easily obtain more as needed, there is no reason not to use it. Once you've worked with it enough to understand how it reacts to variations of exposure and processing time, branch out to others if you feel limited.
    Kodak Xtol for years ........ See Kodak data sheet for temperature and tank type. Or use http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

    Planning on trying Pyro Roll

    Steve
    Last edited by Sirius Glass; 07-10-2009 at 12:09 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  7. #7
    chgofrank's Avatar
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    I use HC110 developer with dilution B in a Nikor tank. 6.5 minutes at 68 degrees. I agitate for the first 10 seconds. and then once every 30 seconds for the rest of the time. I may vary it for different conditions such as low contrast or high contrast lighting conditions.

    I like HC110 because it keeps well and you can push process Tri-x with it when needed.

  8. #8
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tossik View Post
    Well I have a bag of d76. So I'm thinking of sticking with kodak. But what I'm
    asking mainly are the proportions and times and the procedure to develop it. I want to compare with what my notes say
    *******
    Use the D76. 1:1. You can't go wrong. Use it and Tri-X for at least a year.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anscojohn View Post
    *******
    Use the D76. 1:1. You can't go wrong. Use it and Tri-X for at least a year.
    So totally a newb question, 1:1 is after I mix the bag with a gallon then I delute that again 1:1 when developing, right?

    and what about times for stop and fix?

    Thanks for all the replies! I really want to get back into film

  10. #10

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    if the TriX you are using is the 400asa version and you like it, you can buy it at a lower price at Freestyle Photo repackaged as Arista Premium 400 after your roll runs out.

    D-76 is a perfectly good developer and a good choice from which to make comparisons if you experiment with other developers in the future. If you did not buy the D-76 new but got it second hand chack the date on the package. I have always bought developers new but I imagine if it is out of date it may not work or work poorly compared to "fresh".
    "Fundamentally I think we need to rediscover a non-ironic world"
    Robert Adams

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