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  1. #11
    Greg Heath's Avatar
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    My 4x5 is all Pinhole, so it's not 'that' difficult. Plus I built the camera from scratch. (box with a hole) I'm still trying to figure out where to stand for the best photo :-)

    A great photographer up in Steven's Point gave me his Cambo SCX setup but I need a lens plate and lens. That will have to wait till I find another job. ($$$)

    It's a choice between Ramen Noodle or photo chemicals/Camera Equipment. I think Camera equipment is a better choice. I could stand to lose a couple of # anyway.

    G

  2. #12

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    caffenol C ..
    forgot the why part ..
    it is cheap, and easy and the negatives
    print like a dream ...
    Last edited by jnanian; 07-10-2009 at 07:26 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13
    Rick Levine's Avatar
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    After being away from shooting for the last few years I recently tested the new TMAX 400 and Rollo Pyro in my Jobo CPP2 processor and found, during initial testing, I was getting N-3 to N+3 densities to match a reading of between 1.25 to 1.35 on my densitometer (diffusion head).

    I will be doing some real world testing in the next few days. I know gray card testing doesn't always translate to actual full scale images but the initial testing is promising.

    The nice thing about Rollo Pyro is that I no longer have to introduce nitrogen into the processor to reduce the over oxidation of the neg.

  4. #14

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    D-76 stock is a good choice. It works well with just about all films. Diluting it doesn't really buy you anything at 4X5. Most other developers also work well with 4X5. You might want to try HC-110 if you like the one-shot approach.

  5. #15
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Diluting D-76 gives you greater sharpness and smaller grain. It also gives you greater consistency and lower processing cost (you use it one-shot). The only down side is that the processing times are slightly longer.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  6. #16
    johnnywalker's Avatar
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    I use HC-110 Dilution "H" with 4X5 Arista Edu Ultra 200, which I believe is Foma film, with good results. I use the HC-110 mixed from the bottle, and find it very convenient. I use ID-11 for my 35 mm film, and am sure it or D-76 would also be a good choice for the Arista Edu.
    If I had been present at the creation, I would have given some useful hints for the better arrangement of the Universe.
    Alfonso the Wise, 1221-1284

  7. #17
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Since all my 4x5 is pinhole, I use Diafine because it helps tame the wildly varying exposures, and grain isn't really a problem in 4x5. I use the same film.
    f/22 and be there.

  8. #18
    rst
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    Well, as long as you do pinhole and depending on your angle of view, you will get a good amount of contrast on your film. There is a multi-stop difference between the center of the image and the corners. So in this case I also would go for a compensating developer.

    I also do pinhole in 4x5. I do not know anything about the reciprocity factor of Arista EDU and now that you started with this film it might not be an option to try another one, but for pinhole work I try to use film with only a very low reciprocity factor for long exposures.

    Cheers
    Ruediger

  9. #19
    Wade D's Avatar
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    I've been using D-76, Ilford ID-11 & recently Arista 76. All are very similar formulas.
    Stock solution has been my preferred method for close to 40 years. The only time I use 1:1 is in summer when I can't chill the solutions and need longer dev times for better consistency. I recently posted here about wanting to try HC 110 and found much good info as well. This old dog wants to learn new tricks.

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