Jobo 8x10 Expert drum vs Jobo 2850 for 8x10 negatives.

[Jeremy]

I'll gladly pay anyone out there $250 for a like-new 3005 in-box with swab. (Hypothetical, rhetorical, statement, not intended to promote a monetary transaction in this forum ).

Just a note that the 3005 I purchased for $200 isn't new and didn't come with the swab. It was just the tank from a gentleman going to 4x5 from 8x10, who hadn't used the 3005 in a while and offered a refund if it didn't work correctly.

[MikeSeb]

Which, if either, of these drums would work in a Jobo ATL-1000/1500?

[Greg Davis]

Which, if either, of these drums would work in a Jobo ATL-1000/1500?

None of the 3000 series tanks will fit that machine. The 2830, which holds two sheets of 8x10, will fit, I believe. But that is the largest tank that will fit.

[ic-racer]

UPDATE:

I got a second 2850 drum ($35 new in box), so I can load a total of eight sheets of 8x10 and process them right after each other (without having to dry the drum).

Tri-x film seems to clear completely on the back when washed in the drum.
I also just processed 8 rolls of Tmax 400 8x10 and it also gets the back of the film washed in the drum.

For in-drum wash I'm using: Fix, water one min, Permawash one min, water one min, water 2 min, water 3 min.

Development is very even with Jobo CPP using 470ml of T-max developer for 4 sheets. I then use only 260ml for the other solutions.

[Oren Grad]

Are you developing for silver or for alt process printing? Some folks who work in alt processes have found that negatives from Jobo print drums that look fine to the naked eye have uneven UV transmission.

I use a 3062 and a 3063 for ULF negatives, but intended for silver printing only. HP5 Plus comes out OK, but in the past I had some difficulty clearing the base with J&C/Fortepan 400 - had to add a tray step with hypo clear followed by another wash after removing the negatives from the drum.

I use the 3004/3005/3006 for smaller sheet film negatives.

[largeformat pat]

I use a 3062 and a 3063 for ULF negatives, but intended for silver printing only. HP5 Plus comes out OK, but in the past I had some difficulty clearing the base with J&C/Fortepan 400 - had to add a tray step with hypo clear followed by another wash after removing the negatives from the drum.
I would agree. The clearing of the base can be an issue with print drums. There are more ridges in the print drum than the film drum.
Pat

[ic-racer]

I'm doing silver enlarging. I did have intermittent FP4 sticking to the drum. After my wash, I dip each 8x10 sheet into a water bath (white tray) and look for any discoloration of the water (indicating places on the back where there is still some purple/blue) If I see any discoloration of the water, I keep the negative in the water until it clears. With the first 8 T-max, the water was clear with each sheet.

[ic-racer]

Follow up on this thread. I did wind up getting a new 3005 through Jobo Germany (yes still available new, and less than ebay). It is quite a bit bigger and heavier for just a single extra negative. I have used it a few times and it works well.

[eclarke]

I sold my expert drum and far prefer a single sheet in the paper drum for 8x10 and 11x14. For even development I just drop the sheet in loose, not fastening it in the grooves which allow 2 sheets, and processing on the P setting for agitation. I have done about 75 11x14 sheets this way in 2011 with no failures. I have six of the drums and cycle them through on a production line basis so can do six sheets in a session...Evan Clarke

[Mark Crabtree]

I think I may have a couple of those extension tubes for the standard paper drums back in the archives somewhere. If anybody is still wanting those I'd be happy to dig around and see if they are still there.

I actually use the smaller diameter film drums for 8x10 sheet film. One sheet per tube, floating in a water bath, with a cork in the end. Sort of BTZS style. The Expert drums look great but I've never used one. I was surprised to hear they are still available; I thought Jobo was completely gone.