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  1. #1
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    Semi-stand in Pyrocat HD?

    I'm at the point where I have decided to pick a film and developer and stick with it. Previously, I was souping in D-76, but I'd like to branch out a bit. Due to the low light performance, I've chosen Fuji Acros as my film.

    So, I'm shooting Acros in 120, and am thinking about semi-stand in stainless steel tanks. I've processed in SS tanks before, but have never done semi-stand development. To add to the fun, I would also like to change to Pyrocat HD in glycol.

    Does anyone do this? I need pointers on film speed, dilution, processing time and technique, and guidance on if I am crazy or not.

    My goal is to have one process I can use for all shots.

    Thanks all!
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bannow View Post
    I'm at the point where I have decided to pick a film and developer and stick with it. Previously, I was souping in D-76, but I'd like to branch out a bit. Due to the low light performance, I've chosen Fuji Acros as my film.

    So, I'm shooting Acros in 120, and am thinking about semi-stand in stainless steel tanks. I've processed in SS tanks before, but have never done semi-stand development. To add to the fun, I would also like to change to Pyrocat HD in glycol.

    Does anyone do this? I need pointers on film speed, dilution, processing time and technique, and guidance on if I am crazy or not.

    My goal is to have one process I can use for all shots.

    Thanks all!
    Jeff,

    Fuji Acros has been my favorite MF film for several years, because of its low reciprocity failure along with fine grain and very high resolution. For scenes of normal contrast I develop Acros in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 at 72F for 15 minutes, with four agitation cycles, once for one minute at the beginning, and then for ten seconds at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points of time.

    Sandy King

  3. #3
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Jeff,

    Fuji Acros has been my favorite MF film for several years, because of its low reciprocity failure along with fine grain and very high resolution. For scenes of normal contrast I develop Acros in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 at 72F for 15 minutes, with four agitation cycles, once for one minute at the beginning, and then for ten seconds at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points of time.

    Sandy King
    Thanks Sandy. You expose this at 100?
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bannow View Post
    Thanks Sandy. You expose this at 100?
    Exposing at EF 100 is ok but for more shadow detail I usually drop the rating to EF 50 or EF 75. My experience is that Acros does not have as much real film speed as Tmax-100 and Delta 100.

    Sandy King

  5. #5
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bannow View Post
    I'm at the point where I have decided to pick a film and developer and stick with it. My goal is to have one process I can use for all shots.
    Well, after having tried every developer under the sun, if I had to pick one and 'stick to it for all shots', it would be D-76 (or maybe Xtol). After trying all sorts of stand and semi-stand venues, if I had to pick one agitation schedule for roll film in small tanks it would be 5 sec every 30 seconds.

    Yeah, a really dull scenario.
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  6. #6

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    I use Acros @80 pyrocatMC, 20C 30 minutes, 1st minute initial agitation, and 15s every 10 minutes
    quiet-light.blogspot.com

  7. #7
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Something quite interesting that I noticed when I used Pyrocat-HD a lot was that almost all films I used that were correctly exposed for well defined shadow detail needed 13 minutes of processing at 1+1+100 @ 70*F temp (normal), agitation full first minute, then at 9, 6, and 3 minutes (for 10s).
    The only films that deviated from that was Foma, and I forget now if they required less or more processing time (I think it was more).

    I print with a condenser enlarger, so my negs probably need less contrast than most.

    - Thomas

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Exposing at EF 100 is ok but for more shadow detail I usually drop the rating to EF 50 or EF 75. My experience is that Acros does not have as much real film speed as Tmax-100 and Delta 100.

    Sandy King
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lindan View Post
    Well, after having tried every developer under the sun, if I had to pick one and 'stick to it for all shots', it would be D-76 (or maybe Xtol). After trying all sorts of stand and semi-stand venues, if I had to pick one agitation schedule for roll film in small tanks it would be 5 sec every 30 seconds.

    Yeah, a really dull scenario.
    But even if results with Pyrocat-HD and Acros were no better than with D76 or Xtol (which I don't accept) I would still question why one would use D76 or Xtol since the Pyrocat-HD costs a lot less per liter of solution and if mixed in glycol has a shelf life of several years.

    Looking at the price of Pyrocat-HD kits in glycol from the Formulary, and D76 kits in powder form from B&H, I calculate costs to be about 60 cents per liter for the Pyrocat, 95 cents per liter for D76, and $1.30 per liter for Xtol.

    You could save a lot more money by mixing Pyrocat-HD from powder, which would bring the cost down to something on the order of $10 for a liter of Stock Solutions A and B (with B mixed in glycol), which would give 100 liters of solution using the 1:1:100 dilution. That is about 10 cents per liter.

    Looks like a no-brainer to me. The Pyrocat-HD kit comes pre-mixed with a shelf life of several years, and costs far less. The D76 and Xtol kits have to be mixed from the powder, cost far more per liter, and have a much shorter shelf life once mixed.

    Sandy King

  9. #9
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    But even if [your] results with Pyrocat-HD and Acros were no better than with D76 or Xtol...
    That's rather a big assumption, Sandy.

    Staining developers - Pyro ABC, Rollo, 'Cat, HQ - don't cut it for my way of working and my goals. They don't even come close.

    I've tried quite a few developers in many years of dipping film in the soup and I have come back to the old standbys as I have found they work better than anything else for the work I do.

    My opinions aren't shared by everyone and lots of people swear by all sorts of developers that they find give them what they want.

    As to cost, compared to all the time and other costs of making a picture, even the most expensive developer costs next to nothing in comparison.
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  10. #10
    Rick A's Avatar
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    What it all really boils down to, is finding what combination of film and developer gives the look you are after. If what you seek is ever fleeting, then by all means, have fun experimenting. Maybe one day you will find your grail.
    Rick

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